LAS RAMBLAS

Marla had an idea... let's take a walk down Las Ramblas ("The Ramble").

So with our friends Patty and Joe in tow, we walked about three blocks from our hotel over to La Rambla. La Rambla turned out to be the most remarkable avenue I have ever seen. La Rambla is a huge dedicated walkway in the cultural center of town. La Rambla is about 40 yards wide. It stretches 1.5 miles in length. This lovely walkway goes all the way from the center of "Old Barcelona" to the Mediterranean Sea.

Here is one neat feature about Las Ramblas - there are no cars! This is not a typo. Cars are not allowed to cross Las Ramblas. This means you have a mile and a half of unbroken pedestrian walkway right in the center of town. I was so impressed!

Another neat feature of Las Ramblas is the tall sycamore trees that line either side of the walkway. These lovely trees create a tall canopy that shades the long path from the sun. Walking in the shade makes for a very pleasant atmosphere. And did I mention Las Ramblas is clean?  There is an entire army of street cleaners there to make sure litter and leaves do not build up. The sycamores were dropping leaves as I walked, but the street cleaners seemed to make them disappear the moment they hit the ground.

There are a million things to look at. If you are a people watcher, you can watch all day. Las Ramblas is lined with lots of people every minute of the day. You name it, you can see it - pretty people, ugly people, pink hair, brown hair, tattoos, people walking their dogs, old people, young people, kids in strollers, tourists everywhere mixing in with the general population. There is no such thing as walking a straight line; you have to weave your way in and out of people every step of the way.

There are shops that line the avenue. Shops that sell magazines, shops that sell refreshments, shops that sell small birds as pets, and flower shops as well. There are sidewalk restaurants that allow you to sit and rest while you sip sangria. This allows you to appreciate the beautiful women (and men) who stroll by.
There are artists aplenty who are making sketches right on the spot to sell to you.

Best of all, the entire walkway is lined with costumed characters who try to get you to pose with them in a picture in return for donations. Their costumes are pretty outrageous. Wandering down Las Ramblas has the same feel as walking around the Renaissance Festival, except the costumes tend more towards Halloween.  Witches, headless people, coffins, trolls, vampires, you name it. The entire walkway resembles a giant Halloween costume party.

Quite frankly, if I hadn't been so exhausted from the plane trip, walking this fairyland trail in the center of town would have been sheer joy. Unfortunately, my stamina gave out and I literally staggered through the entire morning.  I was so mad at Continental for their stupid cramped plane that ruined what should have been a joyful stroll.

Fortunately I was able to go back and walk Las Ramblas again several more times before the trip was over. This amazing walkway was definitely one of the highlights of my trip.

THE SPANISH VILLAGE

Several of the 90 people on the trip arrived in Barcelona several days before the cruise like we did. In fact, a large group had arrived on Thursday, one day before us, and headed up to Montserrat, a Benedectine monastery high up in the mountains near Barcelona.

It was now Friday. My friend Mara arranged for the group to see Flamenco dancing that evening at a Barcelona restaurant. Mara was pretty incredible on this trip. A native of El Salvador, her fluent Spanish helped us immeasurably on several occasions. For example, Mara was able to show us how to use to underground subway. She seemed to know her way around this place, so we followed her lead without hesitation.

Our group consisted of Mara and Bruce, Kurt and Jean, Patty and Joe, Rick and Marla, Joan and Albertin, plus another Rick (aka Ricardo) accompanied by his friend Claudia.

After a quick two minute walk from our hotel, we were on the subway for a ten minute ride to the El Placa Espana (the Spanish Plaza). From there, the group walked about a mile through a lovely city park to a special area known as El Poble Espanyol (Spanish Village).

The Spanish Village was quite a treat in its own right. The moment I saw the famous walls of Avila, I did a double take. What were the towers of Avila doing in Barcelona?  

Once inside the walled area, I was amazed at the beauty.

What is this place anyway?  I nosed around and discovered the Spanish Village was built for the 1929 International Exhibition in Barcelona to show visitors a representative sample of the different styles of Spanish architecture.  That of course explains why the towers of Avila were here - they were reproduced to create a dramatic entrance.

As I roamed, I discovered all sorts of beautiful architecture. The village consists of 116 buildings. It has a large square where they do concerts. There are also a couple smaller squares connected by picturesque streets, some with stairs. It includes a town hall, a church, a monastery, shops and residential buildings. This place was really pretty!

On a practical note, besides the chance to see lovely buildings, if you come in the daytime there are 40 different workshops filled with artisans creating glass, decorative paintings, ceramics, embroidery, and many other handmade objects in about.

At night the Spanish Village features a number of bars, restaurants, shops and even some nightclubs... including our Flamenco restaurant.  Now it was time to see the dancing.

An aerial view of the Spanish Village

FLAMENCO

Mara could not have arranged a better setting.  We were treated to a wonderful meal and a wonderful show indeed. Our table touched the stage. The performers were literally no more than six feet away. Sometimes they danced so close to our table that either Ricardo or Claudia could have touched them.

There were two male dancers and two female dancers. They danced together some, but mostly they danced solo. When the ladies danced, I grinned as Ricardo's eyes glazed over with joy. When the men danced, I thought Claudia was having a hard time staying in her seat. These people were pretty special.

A handsome young man came out to play Spanish guitar. He was so good looking every lady at the table immediately had a hot flash. They all put their hands up and started fanning themselves. I am sure they didn't realize that every other lady at the table was doing the same thing. Once the ladies calmed down a bit, they got out their cameras and began to furiously click pictures of the young man.

The entire show was quite mesmerizing. Each performer had a different style. The first performer, a young woman, stayed in character. As she danced solo, she frowned, avoided eye contact, and displayed a very controlled, deliberate style.

Next a young man came out and danced solo as well. He was full of energy and passion... let me add he was soon soaking wet from dancing as hard as he was physically able. This guy captured our respect because he put everything he had into his dance.

The third performer was an older lady, say 40, who was the seasoned pro. Unlike her young female counterpart, this lady was all smiles and flirtatious. I thought she was a lot more fun to watch because she played to the crowd. That said, as gifted as her dancing was, she never crossed any lines with her dancing. Her movements always stayed tasteful.

The final performer was a man about 35. Although he could really dance, he was my least favorite. He seemed a bit too full of himself. Nevertheless, he was fun to watch as well. I was interested to note that all four dancers had their own unique style.

Indeed, there was never a dull moment. The Flamenco dancing was a wonderful treat for all of us.

SALSA AND THE MAGIC FOUNTAIN

After our meal and Flamenco exhibition had ended, we explored the Spanish Village a while longer.  The place was so pretty!  There were shops everywhere as we walked through the winding streets.

While we were wandering around the village after the performance, we heard Salsa music… there in one of the shops the salesgirl and her boyfriend and another couple were dancing salsa to pass the time.  They were dancing out in the plaza because it had more room.   Rick and Claudia did not even hesitate.  They immediately joined right in to the appreciate grins of everyone in our group.  Then Marla and I gave it a try as well. 

We all danced to the salsa music until the song ended.  Once they got over their shock of seeing us join right in, the two Spanish couples grinned ear to ear at the sight of a bunch of American gringos dancing to their music.  They were very nice to us.  It was so cute!

Then Bruce and Mara led us half a mile down the hill to El Placa Espana, the Spanish Plaza.  Here we were treated to one of the real highlights of our trip, the incredible Magic Fountain.

The Magic Fountain is a spectacular display of color, light, motion, music and water that rises and falls in time to the music as if it is actually dancing. When you mix all these elements together in just the right combinations, you end up with pure magic! As far as I am concerned, the Magic Fountain is a "must see" when you come to Barcelona.

They start at 9:30pm and go until 12:30 am. Each show has different musical themes from classical to the latest pop hits. There's something in it for everyone. The fountain is huge, but there's more around it: the beautiful museum behind, the boulevard with smaller fountains, and the Venetian towers. The entire milieu is so overwhelmingly beautiful there is a real temptation to sit back and watch as long as the show continues. You can spend the whole night here and never get bored.

The Magic Fountain is seriously romantic - if you are planning on proposing to someone, do it here!

I remember hearing a Viennese Waltz being played.  Now for the second time that night, I decided to take advantage of the situation.

Before Marla knew it, I swept her up and circled the square.  Unfortunately the tempo was too fast so I danced at a different speed than the music.  Fortunately no one seemed to notice or if they did, they didn't let it bother them.  We had become street entertainers.  Everyone around us clapped and smiled in appreciation.

They said our dancing was almost as good watching the Fountain.  Rare praise indeed.  Dance is a fairly universal export.  People love good dancing no matter what country you are in.  

My own impromptu Waltz reminded me of another time we take advantage of a situation.  During our Mardi Gras trip in 2004, right in the midst of all that Mardi Gras Madness, we passed a bar on Bourbon Street.  There was a great blues tune being played in there that made its way out on the street that called to us just like the aroma of a bakery lures you in. 

Marla and I couldn't help ourselves.  We started to Whip right there in the middle of the street.  Marla was a little drunk and started to let her hips move to the music.  Now that got some attention! 

Several people in our group had been here the night before. When Mara suggested we see it, I wasn't sure what to expect. I didn't understand how everyone could rave about a fountain, but it really is incredible how they match the lights and water movement to the mood of the music - very impressive.

While I was researching for some background information on the Magic Fountain, I noticed there are quite a few Youtube postings. I highly recommend you take a look if you are curious.

Words, photographs and videos don't do justice to this fantastic attraction, but at least you will have a better idea what all the fuss is about. And if you ever come to Barcelona, make the Magic Fountain an essential part of your trip.  Not only is it free to all, the Fountain is also VERY easy to find from the Placa Espanya metro station.

Trust me, you won't miss it!!  Just look for a crowd of thousands and head over there.

The stunning beautiful Magic Fountain

MARA AND THE GYPSIES

The Magic Fountain show ended sometime around 12:30 am. Our group walked down to the Metro Subway. Since the entire area of the Fountain was clearing out, the subway was very crowded with all the people leaving the show.

I was on guard because a man who seemed in a hurry had brushed up against me. I thought it was suspicious that he made contact because I didn't do anything that would explain why he couldn't go around me. So as I boarded the train, I had my eyes glued on him.

I was one of the first people in our group to board the subway train. I was perched right at the door preparing to offer a hand to anyone as they got on. I noticed there was some sort of commotion around Mara. The next thing I knew, one of the women in our group (she asked to not be identified) was pushing a man away from Mara! Not only that, she yelled at the guy and actually slugged him in the shoulder with her fist! Mind you, the robber was much bigger than she was, but that didn't stop her from intervening.

My eyes bulged with astonishment. I was preparing to get off the subway and go help, but the woman's fury had taken the robber so off guard that he turned and fled. I noticed at least two other men who seemed to follow him as well.  They had been chased off.  Our heroine had foiled a robbery!  Far out! 

Later as I pieced the story together, Mara said she was already on guard before the incident even happened. Bruce had said something about a bunch of gypsies. Mara was on alert to make sure these strangers didn't bother anyone in the group. It never dawned on her that she was the actual target. A man came up to her from behind. Mara's cell phone was visible in an outside pocket of her handbag. The man concealed his hand movements with his coat and reached for her phone.

Mara immediately sensed something was wrong and clutched her hand bag tightly. Simultaneously Bruce sensed something and pushed the guy from one side. Then from the other side the robber was attacked by our usually mild-mannered heroine. In other words, all three people were paying attention. I think the robber was surprised to realize his prey was part of a large group!  It was easier just to sprint off and look for another mark.   Poof, the Band of Gypsies was gone!

The term "gypsy" came up several times during the trip.  Besides the attack on Mara, I had an experience of my own.  In the town square of Florence, a bizarre woman attached herself to me in hopes of a picture.  She had her face and was dressed completely in white. She made an enormous racket and had her hands all over me.

What I didn't know at the time but learned later is there appeared to another person right behind me who was watching me very carefully for perhaps an opening.  However I was immediately suspicious of her because she got so close to me and jostled me in the process.  My hand went straight to my wallet pocket for safety. 

Thanks to her wild appearance and constant jabbering, she was a very provocative woman who succeeded in distracting us all.  My guide immediately told me to get away from her as he didn't trust her at all.  Fortunately, nothing bad happened.

I was curious to know more about the gypsies since they don't exist here in America (the closest thing I can think of to an American Gypsy might be a hippie).  Gypsies are a European phenomenon.  I was surprised at what I learned.  The name "gypsy" comes from the word "Egyptian" which turns out to be a complete mistake.  From what I gather, the gypsies have nothing to do with Egypt!

The true origin of the gypsies appears to be India.  They are members of a wandering race that migrated into Eastern Europe sometime around the 15th century.  They settled for the most part in Romania and the surrounding area. 

No one is sure how they got their misleading name.  It was either because they were believed to have come from Egypt or because they fit the European image of dark-skinned Egyptians skilled in witchcraft.  Over the centuries the name "gypsy" has been expanded to include practically any wandering nomadic people.
 
Gypsies, Tramps, and Thieves.  Another meaning of "gypsy" is that of a non-conformist, someone who lives life by much different rules. Stereotypes of gypsies include images of gypsy dancers, belly dancers, fortune tellers, witches, groups who wander from place to place, travelling showmen, musician, street performers, circus people, colorful people in general and of course pickpockets and con artists. 

A gypsy dancer performs on the street

MARA WAS PRETTY WONDERFUL

This entire night was indicative of the beauties of visiting Europe in a large group. For one thing, it was wonderful to share this night with our friends. We had an absolute blast at the Flamenco dinner.

There is a real joy in sharing special moments with special people. This Group had a real magic about it. Besides all the fun we have together, as you can see, we watched out for each other as well.
 
As the Gypsy incident made clear, there's always someone there to watch your back. Although Bruce, Mara, and our lovely lady were more than enough to foil the robbery attempt, I was ready to help as well. I watched the whole thing take place from about ten feet away. Since the incident only lasted maybe 20 seconds, it was over before I could even move. Just about the time I figured out what was going on, thanks to our Heroine, the robber and his buddies were gone.

I wasn't the only one ready to join the fray. For that matter, everyone seemed to sense something was wrong. We were all watching out for one another.

If anyone deserved our support, I am glad it was Mara. Mara did so much for us! We were all in her debt that night. In any large group, there are leaders and followers. Tonight Mara was definitely our leader.

As I mentioned before, Mara had organized the entire Flamenco event by herself. Before the trip started, Mara spent quite a bit of time on the Internet looking for a Flamenco opportunity. Once she found the right spot, she invited as many people as she could think of to join her.

When Marla told me about the evening invitation, I was really excited. I had not said anything, but I had been nursing a secret hope to catch a Flamenco performance while we were there. Therefore Mara's invitation was greatly appreciated. However, there was a problem. When Marla called to make reservations, she was told they were sold out. I was really disappointed.

Marla told Mara we wouldn't be able to make it. So Mara got on the phone and started all that Spanish stuff. The next you know, the restaurant discovered two more chairs. Mara had worked her magic.

Throughout the night of the dinner, Mara took charge. Mara not only spoke the language, she knew how to use the Metro, and she also knew how to find the Flamenco restaurant location without any problem. I was impressed. I was a stranger in a strange land, but with Mara around, I felt completely secure. I really appreciate Mara's help for the Barcelona phase of the trip. She was wonderful.

Mara even found the time to do me a huge favor. We got to the "Spanish Village" early enough to visit some of the shops before dinner started. One of the shops sold beautiful hand-held fans. I saw one with a Flamenco dancer drawn on it. I immediately wanted to get it and give it to Marla as an anniversary present.

However I had two problems. One, there was no way I could buy it without Marla seeing me. Two, I had plenty of dollars on me, but no euros - Marla had the euros. So I shrugged and decided to forget about it.

Mara must have sensed something. We were in the restaurant waiting for our table at this point. Mara had noticed me eying that fan in the shop. So she pulled me aside and asked me if I wanted her to sneak out and go buy the fan for Marla. My eyes grew wide. Does this woman have ESP or what? I smiled with gratitude and said absolutely yes, please do that for me. So Mara snuck out and went back to the shop to get the fan for me using HER MONEY.

The following day, Mara handed me the fan when Marla wasn't looking. I put it in my backpack. About an hour later, we were at the Park Guell. It was pretty hot. We were all feeling it. Marla mentioned to me that several ladies had discovered some fans to cool off. Marla commented she had almost bought one herself, but changed her mind at the last second.

By chance, Mara was nearby and overheard what Marla was saying. She grinned with satisfaction. I had just been given the perfect opportunity. So I opened up my back pack and got out the fan. Mara had even thought to have it gift wrapped! Voila. Marla broke into a big smile as I handed her the lovely gift.

It sure helps to have talented friends.

By the way, did you know Mara met her handsome husband Bruce at SSQQ?  They were married in 2008.  It is a great story if you are interested.  Bruce and Mara

Our Next Story: Barcelona Day Two

The three Amigas - Marla, Patty, and Mara

The 4 Amigas - Jean, Mara, Albertin and Joan