3) I wonder just how many people in this world canceled their plan to hike Huashan because of your website.

How many people in this world have canceled their plans to hike Huashan based on my website? 

Now that is a good question.

It never occurred to me before that people around the world might be making their decisions to visit Huashan based on my words. 

So I thought carefully about the 'right and wrong' of my Huashan story. 

Ethically-speaking, what would anyone expect of me?

RICK ARCHER RESPONDS TO ANTOINE'S SECOND LETTER July 11, 2008 I was angry enough at Antoine's first letter.  Now I was furious at his second letter. For the record, I keep up a daily international correspondence not only for this page, but several other pages on my website.  In my ten years of dealing with correspondence from people in all countries, Antoine's first letter had the distinction of being the single most hostile message I had ever received.  Yes, I have heard from people who disagree with me, but no one writes to a complete stranger in the manner that Antoine addressed me.  I answer 15,000 emails a year, but I can only think of one other letter even remotely as negative as Antoine's first letter. And what was Antoine so upset about?  It wasn't like I was claiming the Holocaust didn't exist. Antoine was arguing over a hiking trail located on a remote mountain 7,000 miles away.   Was it really worth this kind of fuss? That said, I have never received a letter as strange as Antoine's second letter.  His 'you have no right to publish my letters' email was downright bizarre.  Everyone should know by now if you put something out in cyberspace, it may just come back to haunt you. It was Antoine's complete U-Turn that made his second email so shocking.  In like a lion, out like a lamb.  What is he so terrified of?  I didn't even publish his last name? Just days after bravely calling me out for my "false and misleading claims", Antoine wanted his powerful pro-Huashan message removed from my web site.  Furthermore, using his scholarly, highly academic approach, Antoine pointed out "you kept the erroneous article standing as it was.  In my mind, this is a fail.  And you still haven't remedy to it" Antoine even thought goading me a little might make me see the error of my ways. "You made a big mistake when writing your article on huashan, well swallow up your pride and do something about it." Now as I read his second letter, Antoine seemed to lack the determination to continue to make his point.  Was this the same guy who was so sure of himself that he challenged me to "take the job to hand like a man"?

Gee, if Antoine really believed in what he wrote, shouldn't he be thrilled to have his nemesis give him an open forum to present his ideas?  Wouldn't you expect Antoine to show some appreciation that I accepted his challenge to debate the issue? Antoine called me out and I answered.  I updated my entire article.  It took some serious time and effort on my part, but I responded to every point he raised.  I even softened some of my original comments. Aren't people usually happy to get what they asked for?   Well, not Antoine. Now that I had invested 20 hours of my time spread over three days to respond to his negative allegations, Antoine suddenly got cold feet. He turned around and completely abandoned the scholarly debate he had dared me to participate in. For the record, I have no idea who this man is, where he lives or what started him on his "Free Huashan" tangent to begin with.  But considering the passion of his Crusade to defend the honor of Huashan against my uninformed prejudice, I would have expected him to at least continue the argument a little longer, yes?  Most fights aren't won in the first skirmish. Guess not.  Antoine did a Heckle And Hyde routine.  Once Antoine realized I was willing to fight back, the Sniper decided it was time to Hit and Run.

It's like they say in deer hunting... it isn't nearly as much fun when the deer start shooting back.

Antoine was pretty outspoken in his first letter.  For someone this aggressive, you wouldn't expect him to pack his bags and hit the Retreat Button at the first sign of resistance.  Indeed, for someone so proud of his vaunted military background (mentioned twice), he sure gave up easy.  If I didn't know any better, I would guess that Antoine was disillusioned to discover I was more than willing to accept his offer to debate the issue.  That is when he realized it is a lot easier to dish it out than to take it back.  So Antoine didn't want to play anymore.  He wanted to take his emails and go home. From Antoine's Second Email: "The main reason I had chosen to send you an email was especially for the reason that I did not wish my comments to be published online."

Oh, really?

Funny, I read his first email pretty carefully.  I must have missed that statement!  

I think Antoine was so busy insulting me and pointing out all my mistakes, he forgot to tell me that he wanted me to take his abuse laying down.  Hey, Rick, let's keep my insults between the two of us! 

So what exactly do you suppose Antoine L is worried about? I will tell you what Antoine is worried about - he is afraid the entire planet is going to see what an idiot he is. Case in point.  Antoine is the only guy on Earth who can read an entire page of published emails - Andre Hycenko, Jarrod Wirth, Robin Esrock, Christopher Rehage, etc, et al, ad infinitum, ad nauseam - and not comprehend that I publish emails sent to me.  A little slow on the uptake, yes? Then Antoine has the nerve to come whining to me with a statement as pathetic as this. "In my first email, I had no thought it necessary to include the standard warning. Please take note of it and remedy to the situation."

Bad news, Antoine, your emails will remain posted right here along with any other incoherent message you care to send me.

Maybe in your next email you could cite a legal case, Mothra v. Godzilla or something like that, which would help me understand what entitles you to shoot your big mouth off and not have to face the consequences.

In the meantime, I suppose you will stay bitter towards me for not kowtowing to your whims.  Be that as it may, I have some news for you.

You should realize if I had published your full name (as I had every legal right to do), this story would put a permanent Google stain on your reputation so deep it would follow you wherever you went for the rest of your life. 

So be grateful I showed mercy on you and kept you anonymous.  Hopefully you weren't dumb enough to tell all your cyber friends about the tough letter you sent to the guy who wrote the story about Huashan.  But that's your problem.

Now tell your handler to take your keyboard away before you go and write something even more stupid than you already have.
 

Letter Ten: Commentary on Antoine's Accusations

 -----Original Message-----
From: J Mei
Sent: Tuesday, July 22, 2008 8:31 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: More on Huashan

Just thought this might help with the arguments your article has attracted -- the trail, and the plank road in particular, was given a major refurbishing by local tourism authorities in fall, 2005.

That's also when all the safety harnesses were brought in.  So you are quite right in guessing that conditions have changed. I imagine recent visitors may be quite unaware of how different things were before 2005.  The climb was very dangerous.

It's their ignorance, not your disinformation!

Letter Eleven: The Mount Huashan Climb is difficult, but not deadly.

(Rick Archer's Note:  This 4- page letter from Michael Sanderson is the best eyewitness account yet. 

Mr. Sanderson sent it to me with the express purpose of clearing up inaccuracies and giving a more accurate assessment of the risk involved in the climb. 

We are all in his debt for taking the time to write such a detailed letter.)

 -----Original Message-----
From: Michael Sanderson
Sent: Monday, August 04, 2008 10:35 AM
Subject: my trip to Huashan

Dear Mr. Archer,

First, I want to say how much I enjoy your site, and how much I appreciate that it exists. Six months ago, I read its stories and saw the pictures while planning a trip with my family. (I live in Guangdong Province in the south of China, and am teaching English, now for a hotel.) If I hadn't seen your site, I surely would not have been inspired to climb the mountain.

Reminiscing about my trip and visiting your site again, I'm sorry to see that there has been controversy surrounding it. I don't claim to be a Huashan expert, but I hope I can add some clarity to a few points based on my recent experience. I'm also including some photos I took and explanations of what's in them. 

My pictures of the Huashan climb can be seen on my web site.

As for my opinion about the controversy, that I will save for the end.

I cannot speak to what the mountain looked like before the refurbishment in 2005. I should also note that due to limited time, I took the cable car halfway up. And while the couple's account was gripping and inspired me to climb the mountain, for a few reasons I don't think the account could have happened like they said. But that's not why I'm writing. I want to share my experience climbing the amount, provide some information and pictures, and encourage other people to do so if they have the opportunity. My apologies if you already are clear on a lot of this.

Because the mountain is approached from the north, the north-south orientation of the mountain is continually confusing--it seems that everyone has their peaks confused. On all good guide maps, up=south. So whether you start climbing from the ground or take the cable car, you first reach the North Peak area. This is the lowest peak. The assents to the North Peak go from ground level. One goes under the cable car route and is insanely steep. The other is apparently plenty arduous and dramatic itself, but I can't speak to that from experience.

From the North Peak area, there is only one steep, narrow route to the rest of the mountain. This is through the Heavenly Steps/Sun and Moon Cliff area. The Heavenly Steps area and the Sun and Moon Cliff area do contain some areas where steps are cut so vertically as to almost be ladders; some other places are like this as well. These areas, however, are not over cliffs. so while someone could easily slip, they would be hurt, but not killed. This continues to the Black Dragon ridge, as you describe. The Black Dragon Ridge is about one-meter wide, with sharp cliffs on both sides, and not a curve or break to stop a fall backwards. There are chain handrails along both sides, and a steady stream of people goes up and down both ways.

After that, you reach an often-overlooked area around the so-called Center or Middle Peak. This area is in fact relatively flat, and nicely forested. It lies between the East, South, and West peaks. There aren't as many people around, and stone paths go off in different directions. As you are already very high, going to the different areas requires as much walking as climbing steps. For reasons of time, I didn't go to to the East or West peaks, but towards the south edge of the mountain. Here is the highest point, the South Peak.

I'm sorry to report that the final assent to the South Peak is not particularly treacherous. The stone steps are not as steep or exposed as the Black Dragon Ridge, and the ground is level enough for the forest to continue right up to the top. There are a few steep places, but it's nothing compared to earlier.

Also along the southern edge of Huashan below the South Peak, is a newer Daoist temple, and around the corner from that, the legendary Changkong Plank Path. I did it, with the safety harness, and it was exhilarating. What struck me was the sound of the wind. Pressed up against the cliff, all the other sounds of the revelers disappears and the sound of the wind is clear. First you go down the ladder made from poles stuck into the crevice. Then there are a few purely-carved foot holes, and after that, the boardwalk. Another brief ladder takes you to the small outcropping, about 15 by 15 feet. There is a tree people tie red cloth ribbons to, and a small cave with a stature of a deity. Then you must go back the way you came.

Actually, I had to go out to the boardwalk twice. Andre does have a few minor inaccuracies. The mounted cameras are only security cameras; if you're by yourself and want a survivor picture, you have to have the guy come out with a Polaroid camera. This runs another 30 yuan.

Although my Mandarian was not good enough to ask, this (Boardwalk) was clearly a dead end, and given the configuration of the mountain, it was extremely unlikely that it was ever necessary to take the plank road to get to the South Peak. Also, there is no gondola from the West Peak to the South Peak--as indicated before, the cable car goes from the bottom of the mountain to the North Peak.

Still, I found there American's story to be exhilarating. They clearly have a flair for the dramatic, as the route becomes more and
more treacherous as they approach the summit, with a snowstorm threatening to cut off their escape--but actually, they layout of the mountain isn't like that. Could the story have some kind of disclaimer at its beginning suggesting that questions have been raised?

As for the large issue of whether Huashan is "dangerous." First, I think the distinction between Chinese people have a different sense of danger than Americans. For example, all over China, you see parents riding motorcycles with their children hanging on in front or behind them, without any helmet or safety features. Open manholes or trenches on the road are left open without barriers, of sometimes even warnings.

However, as far as this mountain goes, while the first impression is of course "people must die all the time," actually, all it is is climbing steps.  How often do we climb steps in our lives without falling?  Especially if concentrating, and holding onto the heavy chains, which don't slip away easily. Also, in most close-ups of the pictures you can see the carved stone steps have been textured, which makes them difficult to slip off. This is not a new safety feature, as it's standard to mountains in China. (I am no mountain climber and am not in top shape, but I have hiked some other mountains in China.)

So I would agree that while dangerous, I completely agree with Jarrod, "This is a great walk and I highly recommend it, certainly it can be challenging and without doubt death could easily call upon the unfit or unwary. However you don't need to spend the night before 'making peace with yourself' in case you don't come back."

Anyway, since I know you're interested in accuracy, I did want to clear up a few minor points about your account and also Hycenko.

The South Peak is forested on its approach, which makes for a pleasant final assent, but it is just a mountaintop. Rest areas are further down its slope. I just thought this was a little unclear.

The Black Dragon Pool is about a meter wide--I have a picture--so I'm not sure about calling it a "resort."

The Heavenly Stairs are the first leg of the climb from the North Peak area to the other peaks.

At the end of Jinsud Pass, there is a choice of any of the remaining peaks--East, South, Central or West, as well as the Changkong Zhandao and some other things to see.  This area is actually quite large, and quite nice, suffused with the feeling of accomplishment.

"The perilous climb is located at the North Peak." I'm not sure. There are some areas around the North Peak that are no picnic, but the most perilous climbs I saw are after the North Peak.

Also, where it says "The West Peak seen in the pictures above is said to be the most graceful peak. I think "Graceful Peak"..." The picture is of the Heavenly Steps area in the foreground, and the North Peak behind it. The North Peak looks small because 1) the Heavenly Steps area is much closer, and 2) an optical illusion resulting from the fact the buildings in the foreground are small in reality, but big in the picture, while the North Peak buildings are big in reality (it's a sizable temple and hostel, and the cable car terminal) but small in the picture.

I'm not sure which peak is considered the most graceful. As for Andre Hycenko, he clearly climbed the mountain but has a few
details off. I'm not sure where he got his statement "Most paintings of mountains are most likely those of Mt. Huashan." That is nowhere close to being the case. Also, the "cable-car peak" as he calls it, is the North Peak, and it's the South Peak that is the highest.

The Changkong Plank Road is located below the South Peak, not between the West and South Peaks.

Huashan does not have an alternate name Huangshan.  Huangshan, or Yellow Mountain, is a different mountain in Anihui province.

I think you know most of this already, it's just not clear thoughout the article. I hope this can help clear some things up.

It does, however, remind me, of what some Chinese students of mine told me when I said I was going to climb Huashan--no, don't, as the expression goes, it has places even a monkey couldn't pass!

Anyway, congratulations on running the top English-language site on Huashan!

Best, Mike

Letter Twelve: Ignore the Negativity

-----Original Message-----
From: Janet L
Sent: Monday, August 18, 2008 1:31 AM
Subject: Mt Huashan

Hi Rick, Greetings from Malaysia.

I have just found your website (my google search on Huashan saw your website listed as no.1 on Page 1 !!).

Congratulations on your efforts in bringing such a wonderful story to interested people the world over.

I will surely spend countless hours sitting at my pc reading all your other travel articles. It's been like hours since I started reading the Huashan article today and I'm only at Letter Six.

Please ignore all the discouraging or untasteful remarks from certain readers. They forget you have never visited the place and are putting in such great efforts into making your articles helpful and informative for other potential hikers.

Three cheers for Rick !!

Kind regards, Janet L
Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
 

Letter Thirteen: The Huashan Trail is Dangerous! 

-----Original Message-----
From: Diane B
Sent: Saturday, October 04, 2008 1:37 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: mount huashan

Hi, just returned from Huashan.  After reading your posting I have to agree that there has to be more accident up there than any place else.

I'm not a climber, just a tourist who thought it would be terrific to see this place after reading about it in a guide book.

There was no information at the cable car at the bottom as to what to expect, unless it was all in Mandarin and I couldn't read it...
It was the national holiday and the mountain was so crowded that you could not stop and pause anywhere along the way for fear that the folks in front of you would push you off...

There was no evidence of emergency personnel along the way, only skinny boys dressed in uniforms trying to control the crowds...we were crushed up there against a holding gate controlling access to the cable cars, rock face against your cheek and precipitous staircases down the cliff on the other side.

Although this COULD have been a nice journey, I was terrified of the potential unpredictable behavior of the crowds and that no one up there had any control...it was dark and cable cars were still riding people up...trails are unlit.

This is not hiking, it is extreme stair climbing, with each step a different rise and the step itself only fitting a child sized foot. to look back is to experience vertigo and to look up is impossible since it is too steep.

This needs to be better managed by the officials...I am sure there is a huge amount of accidents there... I saw old grannies being shoved up these stone ladders, parents with babies and toddlers, children left unsupervised on the trails...and no one up there speaks anything but Mandarin...making it impossible to communicate...signage is vague and it is easy to get disoriented.

You cannot conceive just how crowded it was on that trail. You cannot turn around since then it is like swimming upstream.

Altogether what I thought would be a reflective moment on the mountains turned into a mosh pit in the clouds...

Diane B
 

Letter Fourteen: The Huashan Trail is Dangerous! 

From: Ed
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 1:39 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mountain trails in China

I have been climbing mountains in China for the past three years and I found some of them appear to be very dangerous especially if you fear heights at all. After reading the information on your web site I think I would like to try and climb Huashan. I think one should stay away during the rain, Snow or Chinese holidays and crowds. Every famous mountain in China attracts too many people which could cause a hazard on the narrow steep trails. I have recently climbed Huangshan which has some spot that are steep and leave your heart pounding.
 
I had the chance to climb on a trail in Tiger Leaping Gorge and have written a detailed account and pictures.
 
http://edbo.shutterfly.com/blog

Letter Fifteen: Thanks for the Great Story!

From: Katleen P
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 9:29 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt Huashan Hiking Trail

Hello Rick,

I am a Belgian teacher in geography and preparing a group trip to China in July next year. So my friends are forwarding me everything they can find about China. That's how I received the link to your story. My heart stood still reading it, I moved closer and closer to my PC-screen, terrified, breathtaking, astonished, I felt the cold and the wind as if I was there myself. The adrenaline raged through my body, can you believe it?

This is definitely something I would never do myself. We are planning a 4-hours hike on a difficult part of the Great Wall of China and that 'll be the most dangerous part of the journey. I hope. 

Thanks for the wonderful, well written story.  Katleen

Letter Sixteen: Danger is Exaggerated

From: Ben B
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 9:26 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan planks in October 2008

Hey Rick,

I liked your website and had a good look at it before doing the walk across the planks a few days ago. It was a terrifying but great experience, and if you are interested in posting my story or a few of my pictures on your page, please feel free: http://www.travelblog.org/Asia/China/Shaanxi/Hua-Shan/blog-336006.html. There are also better resolution pictures at http://www.flickr.com/photos/benbeiske/sets/72157608232314713/.

One other thing: I liked the 2003 report by the American on your Hua Shan main page. However, I think it exaggerates the general hike on the mountain (not the planks) quite a bit. I have walked all over Hua Shan and all its peaks, and I think apart from the plank walk the trails are well marked, chained off and well maintained. As long as you stick to the tourists path, they are not more dangerous than your average other Chinese mountain (Emei Shan, Huang Shan or Tai Shan come to mind).

All the best,  Ben
 

Letter Seventeen: Danger is Exaggerated

-----Original Message-----
From: Jamie S
Sent: Monday, October 27, 2008 7:52 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: HuaShan

Dear Mr. Archer,

I just visited Hua Shan with my mother on a sightseeing trip to China, and my experience was completely different than what was described on your website. We took the cable cars, which bring you almost to the top of the North Peak (referred to as "gondolas" in the account - and they do not link the North Peak with the West Peak, they take visitors from the base to near the top). From there, you can continue to hike to the other peaks or just look around and go back down on the cable
cars. We made it to the center, South, and West Peaks. It was strenuous work, but not particularly perilous -- neither of us has any mountain-climbing experience.

Definitely no need to cling to sides of the mountain using footholds. I would not attempt this climb in any sort of inclement weather, but that seems to be more a matter of common sense than anything else. At any rate, it seems quite possible that major parts of this trail were changed possibly in response to accounts like the ones on your sight, but many people these days are likely missing out on a great experience through the misperception that they will be doing crazy things to reach the top. To me, hiking Huashan was very similar to hiking the trails at Yosemite, except that you could buy noodles, water, and souvenirs just about every five minutes at different stands.

Best regards, Jamie S

Letter Eighteen: First-Hand Account of Huashan Climb

From: Moj P
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 11:22 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan, pictures and video

Hi Rick,  I have recently returned from China and among other places I visited Huashan. Before I write something about my impressions and opinions I must say that your site is the reason that I found out about that amazing place. I remember that when I first saw Huashan photos a thought crossed my mind: ''I must see this place, sooner or later.''

A year after that I was climbing Huashan. I must say that I am not a climber nor anything like that and I have never visited a place like the trail below the South peak.

I climbed it by foot and it took several hours of exhausting climbing numerous steps. My main goal was to climb the fascinating trail made of wooden boards on the cliff. I didn't want to stop until I reach it. It certainly isn't for everybody, especially not for people afraid of heights or prone to panic.

At the beginning of the trail below the South peak you get the safety harness which cost 30Y (approximately 3 Euro), a short instruction how to use them and you are on your way. It is not important whether you are an adult or a 10 year old child - unbelievable but I even met small children there. 

It is of great importance to stay calm and concentrated on the trail, not only because of the trail itself but also because you often must walk by people who come from the opposite direction. If people are afraid and paralyzed it is hard to pass near them.

In normal weather conditions the trail is not dangerous nor deadly because of the safety measures that I mentioned.  I would say that the steps on the rest of the mountain which lead to the top are more dangerous than the trail bellow South peak. There are no safety clutches and in case that someone looses balance or falls down the steps, he has a long and painful way to the beginning of the steps.

I was lucky that I visited Huashan during perfect weather conditions but I'm sure that is not as safe to climb it when it rains or snows. At that time the chain which people hold to climb the trail more safely is not safe enough.

I really enjoyed staying in Huashan and I think that spending time in that fascinating place was the best and strongest experience I had in China.

To all those who love nature and challenges and come to Xi'an: Do not miss Huashan but be careful during the hike. A one day trip is simply not enough. The best thing to do is to sleep in one of the hostels on the mountain and stay there at least for two days.

I put some of my photos on my website and I tried to describe the hike to the trail made of wooden planks. There is also a short video on my website (45 sec). I was filming with my right hand while I was holding the chain with the left. It was made with an ordinary camera and is not of high quality but I think that it is relatively good considering the conditions.

Link on my webpage: http://www.mojputopis.com/Huashan/Huashan-en.htm

Best regards,
Moj P

Letter Nineteen: Thanks for an Exciting Read

From: colin l
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 5:07 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: huashan letters etc !!

hi, just thought i'd put my two cents or so to say in !!! ignore that antoine, he obviously was just looking for an argument, in total military style as usual !!!

i read your articles on the huashan trail & el camino del ray ( spelling prob wrong but don't care !!) with eager excitement , you have really captured my mind , i'd love one day to complete both of these hikes, but it seems a long way off from this sleepy farm in Scotland!!

your web site is truly amazing & without it i may never have heard of these wonderful places (el camino del ray found first on you-tube , then linked to your site), they truly are awe inspiring & i just want you to know that i think your site is excellent & well put together!

there are 2 sides to every story & in the middle is the truth, by publishing such open minded & impartial articles i think you give a nice all round "feel" as to what these treacherous but breath taking locations are truly like !!!

all the best,  Colin L

Letter Twenty:
The Huashan Hiking Trail is still risky, but not as dangerous as it used to be

From: Philip D
Sent: Friday, April 03, 2009 4:02 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan

Hi Rick.

I have just returned from China after staying there for one month and marrying my girlfriend. This is my second trip to China and my wife suggested that we climb mount Huashan to see the sunrise. I had no idea what to expect but having some experience of fell walking in the english lakes I agreed. We climbed up to the north peak in darkness but with the aid of the installed lights that line the path up. I am told that the chinese climb the mountain because it dangerous and that after climbing Hua mountain there will be no other problems with other mountains. Well I enjoyed the climb and the views are spectacular and there is still an element of danger in climbing this mountain despite the safety measures in place.

Over time my wife and I intend to climb all the peaks and I know that we will do it. Cant see why people have to score points against each other after climbing the mountain tho? Surely it must be enough to have climbed it. I am told that the local government is intending to install another cable car somewhere and that the monks dont agree with it but cant fight that decision. Thats tourism I guess. Any way the site is ok so dont worry about those that feel the need to discredit.

Philip
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Archer
Sent: 4/3/2009 4:13:57 PM
To: 'Philip D
Subject: RE: Huashan

Thank you for writing, Philip. I have a favor to ask.

I would like to ask your help. I would like to reprint your letter, but first I have a couple questions if you don't mind. On the big problems I have faced is that I am blind to any first-hand knowledge of the place. So I desire to trust your judgment and see if I can clear some things up.

One, you wrote: "Any way the site is ok so dont worry about those that feel the need to discredit."

Are you referring to my website article on Huashan?  Is my overall story accurate or is it offbase?  What on my website needs to be changed or updated?

Two, is the North Peak the most difficult climb? There has been some confusion on this.

Three, you commented on safety features. Do you believe these features have succeeded in reducing the danger? Out of curiosity, if you have the time, what are these features.

Four, pretend you and your wife are 50. How difficult in your opinion is the climb for someone of that age? Can you comment on the risk factor in more detail?

Anything else you can think of?

Thank you! I really appreciate your time!

Rick Archer
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Philip D
Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 3:30 PM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: RE: Huashan

Your web is site ok.

My wife is 43 and a chinese national who has climbed the mountain twice before and i am 54 and carried my camera pack up. The dangers are there because of numbers of people and the steepness. New routes have been built from the north peak onwards. You can get here by cable car though.  We walked 7hrs and 6km (3 1/2 miles) to reach north peak and stopped at that. We were tired. The other peaks are shorter in distance but higher. i will climb them later. Best way is to go climb.

The north peak will be the longest walk/climb and the safety measures are steep steps and chains. Some sections now have two sets of steps to allow ascent and descent at the same time. The other peaks have shorter but steeper steps. There is a new route from north peak called "soldiers path" that is mounted on the side of a cliff.  It leads to the west peak and then to the south peak etc. The mountain is very sheer everywhere but is beautiful and must be the goal of your life.  
 

Letter Twenty One: Thank you for the story

-----Original Message-----
From: Cedric
Sent: Tuesday, March 24, 2009 2:50 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt Huashan!

Hi ya!

Read your very well written account about Mt Huashan. That was in every sense a very treacherous hike, probably the most dangerous in China. I am also very glad both your wife and yourself did not have any mishaps.

Thank you very much also for consolidating the rare photos too. Just for your information, the difficulty of ascending Mt Huashan is relatively well known amongst the Chinese. (I'm Chinese, but I live in Singapore).  

And Mt Huashan actually has an ancient nickname, Tian-xian (??), which translates into something like "heavenly danger".

Strange thing though, and exactly as you pointed out, there's hardly any information on the actual hike itself. Even the official publications in China feature only faded, misty old images.

Your account, on the other hand, is one in a million.

Regards, Cedric

Letter Twenty Two: A REMARKABLE LETTER ABOUT HUASHAN - May 2009

Rick Archer's Note:  This letter from Mr. Allen accomplishes many wonderful things.  The letter confirms there were definitely tragedies in the past.  It confirms there have been recent improvements to the safety of the trail as well. 

Mr. Allen's letter also gives Westerners a bird's eye view of his experience climbing Huashan accompanied by his two children. 

After you finish reading this letter, I think you will agree with me that we are all lucky to have someone like Mr. Allen to shed so much light on this fascinating story.

From: p allen
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 2:00 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan

Dear Rick,
I have enjoyed reading your site, and found the reaction of a few of your correspondents to be remarkably thoughtless.

The dilemma appears to be that Huashan has a reputation of being dangerous; yet a number of people have climbed recently and found it relatively safe.
Is this so hard to reconcile?

As Cedric mentioned, its reputation is widely recognised in China, and he correctly translates 'tianxian'.

By way of background, Chinese have, over generations, celebrated their more spectacular mountains through poetry, art and solitude. The most famous are Huashan, Taishan, two Hengshans and Songshan; but as the saying goes, if you visit Huangshan, you need not bother with the others. Huangshan has 72 peaks and is relatively accessible, as well as being stunningly beautiful, which is why it has had most attention from artists, as one of your contributors pointed out. Huashan gained artistic attention too, but has been too inaccessible over the years to have inspired a large number of artists.

The five mentioned above are related to Daoism, of which Taishan, as the centre of Daoism, has the strongest link; Songshan is equally renowned for Buddhism (Shaolin); the Hengshan mountains, I am not so clear about, and Huashan was always better known for its precipitous edges and steps anyway, hence the attendant danger. It has attracted hermits, whether Buddhist, Daoist or neither, and never been uniquely devoted to any.

The nature of its inhabitants first hacked the hair-raising pathways and passages to surmount it, deliberately desiring it to maintain its difficulty and danger to limit casual visitors.

The challenge has though always lingered. 

In the 80s, when Chinese gained some freedom of movement, and a degree of prosperity emerged, Mt. Hua faced tourism for the first time. Student groups in particular arrived in large parties.

Standard practice was to set out in the evening for the East Peak to arrive to see the sunrise; it was also specifically considered safer to climb at night to avoid viewing the nerve-jangling traverses and climbs that the mountain entailed.  It was very dangerous, and too many visitors fell off.

As of the early 90s, the government urgently began to build out the paths and steps; however in the mid-90s, they added the cable car to the North Peak (1614m - the lowest). Tourism was already blossoming; this new accessibility multiplied the numbers to levels that the improved passages could not handle, and the reputation as a potential death-trap continued. In around 2000, an urgent effort was made to further improve safety on the mountain; build more routes, some circumventing the more dangerous passages, and deny access, such that the most dangerous are now no longer available.

I do not know exactly what was done when; but I see no reason to discredit the author of the original tale cited. It should also be noted that they were travelling in a cold, icy moment with strong winds, both factors which make their journey absolutely perilous.

Nowadays, over 90% of the pathways are paved with heavy stone and almost all have railings or basic chain fencing. This is all new - over almost 20 years.

Originally there were only steps or footholds cut into the rock; chains or hand grips were also curved into the rock too where it was too narrow or perilous.

I had found and checked your site when I was deciding whether it would be possible to take my children (aged 8-11). I knew its reputation; but that safety improvements had been made.

I set out at about mid-day with the elder two. We walked the old route, which has been widened, alongside the river. One enters the Qinling mountains from the valley to the North. On the way, one passes the sign that states, "Conquer Huashan, and find peace ever after".

After about 4kms, the path crosses the river and the steps become steep. This is at Qingkeping, where it also reminds the traveler that it is necessary to be mentally and physically prepared to proceed: (perhaps more relevant to former times, too).

All the way through this vast gorge, the mighty West peak, with its precipitous face, stands huge and enticing ahead. Then the path, all steps, now turns South toward the North peak; one encounters the first set of heavenly steps, which are cut into the rock and rise at about 60 degrees or more; in two stages, these gain well over 150 metres as one holds a low chain. On the left side, sometimes immediate is a precipitous edge down to the river deep below. More hard work than dangerous.

Finally we reached the North peak and met my wife and eight year old, who had ridden the cable car. (Incidentally the soldier's path is an alternate route up from the base of the cable car; it is a new and slightly shorter route, starting slightly higher up than the original).

We had climbed about 1200 metres (think I read somewhere that the Huayin village is at 400m) at this stage in somewhat over 3 hours, good going for the little guys.

To proceed to the higher peaks one must climb another sharp set of steps carved into the rock, Heavenly Ladder. Only about 20m in height and probably 80 degrees or so, again not too dangerous, barring the cascade of people descending. There are tight chains on both sides of two tracks for grip.

Not too much further is the Black (or Blue, or sometimes Green) Dragon Ridge. The mountain used to have just one route, which we have followed so far, and this Ridge was the 530m connection to the bulk of the mountain. Now one enters through two parallel paths, one of which heads onto the Ridge; the other to the Flying Fish ridge which is a new track which takes a more circuitous lower course to begin.

However one can note that at this entry, the paths are both new and built up; to the right, is a small cliff leaning in with a chain and some handholds initially; once this was just a very narrow path tight to the angled rock which pushed one's stance outwards.

Then the Ridge itself: the steps are now more deeply cut and wider. Basic metal railings have been placed on both sides. It remains very exposed - amplified if it is windy- but the improved steps and railing make it safe to-day, particularly since it is one way on crowded days..

Thereafter one heads passed the Golden Lock Pass and around the stunning WuYun Peak towards the East Peak. Nothing difficult, though from time to time one can see where the old pathway was just some tight small steps which would have had no protection.

Close to the East Peak is another ladder ( Cloudy?). Nowadays an almost 80 degree metal ladder about 25m is another option; but the original route remains up a stone cliff, which actually surpasses the vertical to about 100 degrees in its mid-section. Steps are cut into the rock, and a chain hangs down. One grasps the chain and leans out holding the majority of one's weight in one's arms even as you grasp the chain ever higher. I wish I could say that I took this route; but with 5 kg on my back and a family watching below, discretion won out when faced with the necessity to lean out. Immediately a ranger strode up with practiced ease.

The route thereon to the East Peak is easy; though the original sunrise watching place has a dangerous rock which is hard to scramble up. Today's visitor might find it hard to imagine that many places on the path up, and the peaks with their precipitous edges used to have no protection at all.

I was exceedingly nervous as my children invariably went straight to the heavy twin chain fences, which were placed where the rock had already begun to slope away towards that peak's bottomless sheer faces below.

There are four pictures in the middle of your website, which refer to the West peak. These pictures are from the main body of the mountain looking back to the North peak in the distance and probably from the Zhenyue palace , and the Jinsud pass in the near ground.

Imagine that track with its steps more lightly cut, and no railings; then add a blast of cold wind.  I shudder at the consequences of my darkest fanatasies.

The picture below of the chess-playing temple (gazebo) is a way below the East peak hotel (a heavenly bargained Y760 for five in one room, and mercifully only Y15 for a large beer - carried all the way up by porter), which itself is immediately below the East peak.

A new path runs passed this temple en route for the South peak. One drops about 200m before ascending again to a temple around which one can head onto the perilous path on which the older lady (in your pic) is standing by herself. It is sheer down almost 2,000m beyond that fragile-feeling chain railing. It is now a photo-op dead end; one can no longer pass on to the plank walk and somersault ladder in the chimney described.

Other routes take one back up to the South peak, where again its is quite safe, though one's hearty palpitates somewhat when one's children lean on the chains to look over.

Our first day saw only a relatively few fellow travelers; but overnight many students had climbed up, and more were arriving on the day before a holiday. exuberant youths were testing their mettle at many places. No doubt some still falter; or those enthusiastically showing their ability to rush down steps may also cause others to stumble, sometimes in dangerous spots. Certainly people still do die on the mountain.

All over the mountain, parts of the exposed old pathways remain, as one now proceeds on the well-made steps. The path up to the West peak is the same and very exposed, if not too steep, as pictured as the broad ridge in the latter part of your site. Again the new railing gives comfort if the weather turns.  (The intermediate picture is of the West peak from the North peak, and the more distant East peak).

There was no essential safety problem for the children provided they paid attention, and did not dare themselves too recklessly to take shortcuts and test the edges. The larger danger was always other people. However the trip brought back memories for my wife who had climbed it in 1984 in the dark. She had been in a party of 70 students selected from her province, and had been the only woman to make it to the sunrise out of less than 20 of her group altogether, though none of the others had fallen off. She was reminded of the perilous parts and the outright determination which had been required.

In many parts, they had crawled across the rock steps, particularly on the way down, when they had been witnessing the exposed dangers all around.

I am 50 and consider myself fit; we saw some local woman of about 70 climbing it.  It remains a spectacular mountain with stunning views all around; but it is accessible and broadly-speaking safe, maybe for too many on high days and holidays.

Hope this helps.

One more point.  My wife told me there was a large accident reported a year or two after my wife originally climbed Mt. Hua, when a group somehow had collectively stumbled on the Black Dragon Ridge, causing a chain reaction that caused many to fall to their deaths. 
 

From: Rick Archer
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 12:46 PM
To: 'p allen'
Subject: RE: Huashan

You have written the most comprehensive and valuable letter I have ever received on the topic of Huashan.

I am deeply grateful to you. I am certain that the many people who visit my site will be just as appreciative. You have given us all not only a clear picture of the modern status of this mountain, you have given us a peek into some of the history that the original reputation of danger was well-deserved.

You have also made it clear that steps (literally and figuratively) have indeed been taken to improve the safety of the climb. That is a wonderful contribution.

You have also cleared up once and for all the disconnect between the original Frank and Laura story and the more recent claims that Huashan is nowhere near as dangerous as it once was.

May I ask some questions?

1 - As a father myself, I noted with a smile your concern for your children. From your commentary, I take it you felt they were at risk on several occasions. In my opinion, part of being a parent is exposing children to risks you believe they can handle, thereby helping them gain confidence. Do you think that your two children were up to the task? Would you take them again? Do you have any particular suggestions to parents facing the same dilemma?

2 - How did you become so knowledgeable about the history of this mountain? I am guessing that you have married a Chinese national who was able to fill in some of the details. Personally, I believe you have done the Western world an extraordinary service by explaining the past and present in such wonderful detail. If it doesn't cause a problem for you, I would like to know more how you arrived at such comprehensive knowledge.

Thank you so much, Mr. Allen. You have cleared up so many issues in such a gentle and clear way. I think I speak for many people who will read your letter and be thrilled to see so many misconceptions explained and reconciled in a way that it is easy to understand.

Furthermore, the Chinese government should be grateful that you have written your letter. Thanks to you, I think many people will be encouraged to take this climb in the future.

 

From: p allen
Sent: Wednesday, May 06, 2009 5:53 AM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Re: Huashan

Rick, Glad you enjoyed my note.

To answer your questions, I try to expose my children to as much risk as I can, whether it is cultural, social, sports or more abstract.

Though not danger per se, your website was useful in assessing the current danger of Huashan, even if I did so through some of the more ill-considered correspondence. If Huashan were still as dangerous as the 2003 description, we would not have gone.

As it is today, we would go back, or at least to somewhere that was equally 'risky'.

The risk on Huashan was always identifiable - we had good weather. Children know what they can do, especially if they can see reliably.  However, not all children are the same, as you know.  My middle son is most likely to show off and to take an extra risk.

With such knowledge, I think a parent must try to stand back, though not ignore the child in various situations.

I was naturally nervous because a fall on Huashan would often be fatal. However, I was interested to note that, while my children walked comfortably to the railings on the East and South peaks, when they got to the West peak - which required a short vertical step climb with a central chain to hold - the area on top of the rock was larger and flatter, as well as uncrowded. However, all the children cautioned me about going close to the edge, and did not test it themselves. Was this in part because we had been looking at the huge cliff for so long as we had trudged up the valley the day before?

Yes, I think they all handled and gained from it.

As to your second question, my wife is Chinese and very well educated. It happens she was brought up in Huangshan area; so I had heard the ditty about the five stunning mountains around China, but that a visit to Huangshan rendered a visit to the others unnecessary, long ago.

She had also told me of her original trip to Huashan, and its profound effect on her. So she filled me in on much of this. I also encouraged my children to acquaint themselves and me with where we were visiting (Xian itself has a huge history, and at less than 2 hours from Huashan makes for a good combination for a trip - though easier when based in China!).

I have lived in China for over 7 years and my business has provided a bridge between China and the west (in financial matters). Naturally I am interested in the country and its history.

My wife meanwhile is developing a TV series about Western experience involving a business venture in China, and we have several films proposed which explore both aspects of to-day's China and its historical legends.

Kind regards, P Allen
 

From: Rick Archer
To: p allen
Sent: Wednesday, May 6, 2009 11:42:49 PM
Subject: RE: Huashan

Your two letters were so valuable that I posted them immediately.

One last question.  On my first page, I printed this letter:

Letter Two from Tongyan to Jim

Jim, I was unable to find anything on the Internet but I can tell you my story about Hua shan.  It happened next year I visited Tai Shan. I was in my the 3rd year in University. There was a group of students as same age as me, they were went to Hua Shan to play. Those students were from The 4th Army medical school.

When they are in the middle of the climb, something happened and people from top of the mountain all drop down. ( I forget what cause this happen), since the mountain shape so sharp, it is hard for the people in the middle to prevent the drop people from top, so there is a lot of injury. And very badly. Those group of students who were in the 3rd year of their learning began to rescue the injuries immediately. (yes, there is rescue team for the traveler, but that takes time, some injured people might not able to wait). It was these group of students that offered a first time period diagnoses and huge skilful support before the ambiances and other medical personnel's come, some injured people got survived.

Whole country gave them great honor. Our university "Tianjin University " actually invite them come for lectures, thousands of students were in the auditorium to listen how do they diagnose, how to help transfer the injures to the hospital, how do they assistant the operation, how many life were saved, more important how they use their text book knowledge to apply for each individual's diagnose…... This page permanently exist in The 4th Army medical school history. It is called "Hua shan Rescue".

Is this the same incident you referred to in your first letter?  Here is what you said in your first letter:

"there was a large accident reported a year or two after my wife originally climbed Mt. Hua, when a group somehow had collectively stumbled on the Black Dragon Ridge, and many had fallen to their deaths.”

People have hinted to me that there were indeed been fatalities in the past, but other than that incident it is all rumor.  Do these things still happen or do you think by and large people falling to their death is a thing of the past?

I understand this is a controversial question.  Since you do not know me personally, you might be reluctant to be candid.  Whatever you say, I will not attribute it to you.  I will simply place whatever you say as an anonymous letter somewhere in the pack.  But I would like to know what the truth is about the current and previous danger since so many people make their decisions whether to visit based on my site.

Thank you again.

From: p allen
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 10:18 AM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Re: Huashan

Rick,

I cannot confirm whether the two incidents happened to be the same. Unlikely though.  Amongst Chinese at that time the mountain was well recognized for its danger, and the occurrence of fatal falls was widely known - more than one multiple fatality certainly occurred.

Have checked some current blogs: I could not find any reference to anything historic, except one mention of the difficulty of two people trying to pass in previous times.
 
However it is clear that the mountain's reputation for danger still lingers. But current bloggers are relatively dismissive, like some of your correspondents, of the danger to-day - fair enough; the swarm of people on holidays are identified as the main danger now, as well as ice in the colder months.

The government is promoting tourism, and indeed the effort to make Huashan safe and accessible has been enormous, as well as largely successful.

It is probably in few people's interest to dwell on the specifics, if the details are known, particularly on the internet.
 

Letter Twenty Three:  A Note from a Daughter to her Mother after a successful climb

From: Jenna
Sent: Mon 7/20/2009 9:40 PM
To:
Subject: Mt. Haushan - want to make sure you are in 1 piece

Hi Mom, Did I tell you we were going to climb Huashan? I completely forgot, it was such a spur of the moment decision. Not to worry, I am fine. Unfortunately, in my opinion, we took the cable car up the first part. Most people do this, it is a rugged 2,000 meter stretch. However, I wanted to climb this part because it was the most untrammeled and uninvaded by venders and pit stops. It would've been very hard for my siblings though. After we got off the cable car, we climbed to the top of what is called the East mountain. There are three main peaks of Huashan - the South, East, and West peaks. You arrive at the North peak when you get off the cable car. The climb was strenuous at certain parts, but it was all stairs.

I don't remember if I told you about the mountain climb my family went on a couple of weeks ago - it was much more rugged. We drove out into the countryside and my father simply chose a mountain to climb. Before we could ever get to the mountain, we had to cross a river. We couldn't find a stone path to cross, so we just took our shoes off and walked. When we got to the other side we put our shoes back on. However, my brother dropped his shoe in the river and I had to dive for it to save it from the rapid current. So before we even began climbing I was soaking wet and had a cut on my knee. There was no path on this mountain, and at points we were climbing on all fours because we either had to climb through the brush or because the mountain was almost vertical. There were countless thorns and I had cuts all up and down my arms and legs (I was the only one who was wearing shorts, aside for my father who was wearing his boxer briefs because he had to ditch his pants to cross the river). I basically had to drag my siblings up the mountain as we cut through the ravine. At certain points I actually lifted my brother and sister onto things because they were too small. At one point I had one of those TV moments were someone slips over the edge of a cliff and grabs onto something at the last second. My experience was not as dramatic, but my legs were dangling over a ridge and I had to pull myself up using a root. Though my father may seem like a small, bubbly, sheltered business man who likes to talk a lot, he was a fearless beast when it came to climbing this mountain.

Anyways, there were some dangerous parts of Huashan. As it is at most tourist sights in China, the steps were made in the Tang Dynasty, so you constantly had to watch were you were walking. Additionally, there were parts where you basically had to rope climb up the side of a cliff because the steps were too narrow. We climbed the most dangerous part (you have to pay to do so) where we had to wear a harness to climb the side of a cliff where there were no steps, only holes and inlets in the rock for our feet and hands. I later learned it was the part where people have died in the past. It was very cool though, we were the first ones to climb it that day (it was probably about 5:45) and so everyone was watching us. Though the climb was dangerous, it is a tourist site after all, so the proper precautions (for the Chinese at least) had been taken; unlike at the mountain we climbed a couple weeks ago.

Anyways, we climbed to the top of the East peak and watched the sunset. After that we stayed in a guesthouse (obviously without running water). The next day we woke up at 430 to watch the sunrise, which we actually didn't get to see very clearly. Then we climbed that dangerous section, and then my brother, my "cousin" - a young man who is very close to my family who has climbed Huashan many times -, and I climbed up to the South peak, the tallest peak of Huashan (about 3,000 additional meters - almost as high as Tibet - in total about 3,000 meters shorter than Mt. Everest). It was very cool, but climbing up there you could feel the air getting much thinner, making the climb more difficult.

We were all very tired when we got back yesterday, but overall we had a fun time. I got to talk to many foreigners, even an Australian from Sydney!

Much love, Jenna
 

Letter Twenty Four: A Rainy Day on Huashan
 

-----Original Message-----
From: richard j
Sent: Wednesday, August 05, 2009 5:29 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan Mt

This past Saturday I had the experience of climbing Mt. Huashan.

I must say it was an experience, but because of the weather the experience was damped, pun intended. It was a very overcast rainy day, and little of the mountain could be seen. But what could be seen was still spectacular. The tram going up the side of the mountain was enough to make my heart do a couple of flip flops. It was so crowded that I was never sure how far we climbed or what peak we were climbing if any. We just sort of followed and the crowd pushed us up the trails. We climbed for about two hours, but decided to turn back and head down.  We did this due to the rain, the slippery steps and the amount of people climbing. There were as many people trying to get up as there were going down. It is too bad they didn't have one trail for ascending and descending. I marvel at the people who work there, and climb up and down those stairs with yokes of garbage and supplies.

When we bought our tickets for the climb, there was also insurance included in case of accident. I was with a chinese only group, no foreigners.  However since I was with my asian wife they let me go along.  I am not sure if the insurance was a part of tour agency or the park.

Anyway I think given a good day the mountain would be a good hike. Maybe I will try again sometime. But then maybe hiking on a bad day is also good.  This way you can not see how far you would fall.
 

On Aug 5, 2009, at 8:06 AM, Rick Archer wrote:

Thanks for the story.

Did you feel the hike was particularly dangerous or have reports of the danger been exaggerated?  Since I have never been there personally, I am always trying to gauge the difficulty since many people base their decisions on what I write.
 

----Original Message-----
From: richard j
Sent: Friday, August 07, 2009 5:11 PM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Re: Huashan Mt

Truthfully I think that if you are prudent and have good weather the climb (hike) is rather safe.

But given the circumstances I was in, I felt that the climb was a potential hazard--large amount of people trying to go up and down at once, we were packed like sardines, wet slippery steps, and rain and fog.

On a good day I think I would have enjoyed the climb, but to tell you the truth, I was a little scared. Some of my uneasiness was due to the brochure the tour guide had. As you have seen in your pictures, it looks very imposing. To tell you the truth I am not sure if my feelings would have been decreased or increased had I been able to see down the sides of the Mountain.

I did not hear of any accidents, but I did see a couple of people lose their footing. Luckily they were holding on to the chains.

Letter Twenty Five: An Interesting Letter about Huashan - October 2009

From: wei
Sent: Wednesday, October 28, 2009 8:32 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: about huashan

Hello, I have seen your website on Huashan, which impressed me with its details and responses attracted. Just to clarify things a little bit, I went there in the 1990s.  I wouldn't say it's unbelievably dangerous, and it's certainly not realistic to expect people falling off every minute, but every step I took in some relatively dangerous trail, I needed to give my full concentration.  I didn't even dare to turn my head around, the only thing I was looking at is my feet and the stairs. I promise you, if you concentrate, you will not fall off or anything.

When I went there, there certainly is no safety measures such as harness.  I heard in recent years, in those steep 90 degree climbs, the locals have built a safer steel stair next to the original stone stair, so all this add to the safety of the trail.

And I certainly think it's unfair for people to go there, expecting 'mountain climbing' type of danger, with a touristy outfit.

Also, it's interesting to note the major huashan accident that one of the email have mentioned. My father was one of the 4th military medical school students that have participated in the so-called 'huashan rescue', he recalled that on that day, he and his schoolmates stood at the very edge of the long narrow cliff (canglong ridge, apparently no supporting chain installed at the time), hand in hand, so that they themselves have formed a human wall protecting the other tourists. My dad said he thought at the time 'this is it!'...lol.

and thank you again for the informative website, I am very glad it has attracted so much attentions, because the sheer beauty of the mountain itself is worthwhile.

Regards Wei
________________________________________

 

October 28, 2009
Rick Archer's Response:

As I piece together bits of information from people like yourself, I gather that my original assessment that Huashan was once a dangerous climb was legitimate.  You say that if people pay attention and concentrate, they will be safe.  Yet at the same time, your very own words - "I didn't even dare to turn my head around, the only thing I was looking at is my feet and the stairs"  - indicate that you were well aware that any mistake could be fatal. 

It is my guess that as China opens its doors to ever-increasing tourism, they are modernizing the facilities of their major attractions including safety features. I have heard that recent improvements have taken a great deal of the danger out of the climb. From my perspective, this is a good thing.

I don't regret labeling the Huashan climb as dangerous back in 2007.  Perhaps my criticism called attention and helped officials decide to make it safer.  On a positive note, my 'danger' story served to bring attention to the beauty of the area as well. With increased attention came curiosity and new Western visitors.

Thank you for your kind words, Wei.
 

Letter Twenty Six: Is Zion National Park in Utah a safe climb? - January 2010

From: Carrie M
Sent: Sunday, January 03, 2010 8:24 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Zion's Angel's Landing

Rick,

Have you ever heard of Angel's Landing - Zion National Park, Utah?

Another scary and very dangerous climb. The park service has warnings, but after climbing to the top myself I realized that I had put my life in danger, and I wondered if anybody had died on this "hike." I asked a local girl in town and she told me that on average 1-2 people per summer fall to their demise. My husband and I were shocked! Sure, you are warned that it is dangerous, but few people seem to really get it as they are making the climb. How can the park service allow this to go on? Check out the LA times article below. Might want to add it to your list of places. Zion is beautiful, but Angel's landing needs to be safer.

http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/outposts/2009/08/angels-landing-dangers.html

Rick Archer's Note: If anyone would like to share information on Zion, please do so.  dance@ssqq.com

Letter Twenty Nine: Huashan is No Longer Dangerous... dangereaux! 

From: Raphaël
Sent: Wednesday, July 21, 2010 10:24 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan mountain
 

Hello Rick,
I'm a french people who has just been to Huashan 2 weeks ago.

You'll find some picture in my blog
Sorry it is in french…

I write you to tell you that the security of huashan mountain has been highly improved since the first pictures of your site.
In fact I've never felt myself endangered during the 2 days I had on the mountain.

It is still very impressive but for me it's not anymore one of the most dangerous hiking in the world.

The most dangerous part is now secure with "via ferrata" type equipment. Still impressive, but no more dangerous.

Another example is in one very steep climbing with steps in a quasi vertical rock : they have now installed a metallic stair for those that don't want to use the steep part.

Anyway, it's still a fantastic mountain and now we can have the same sensations but without danger, so it's great.

The only problem is that it is really overcrowded...

Regards, Raphael
 

Letter Thirty: Huashan is No Longer Dangerous

From: Kwong Y
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 1:35 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt. Huashan story

Hi Rick,

By chance, I came across your website on Mt. Huashan Hiking Trail, in which you mentioned that Mt. Huashan "might just be the most dangerous Tourist Hiking Trail in the world."

I guess I felt quite a vindicated to read your comments and the letters on your website :)

I have been to Mt. Huashan twice. It was years and years ago, when I was in my late 20's. I'm now in my late 50's :)

I was there with a friend of mine on the hike to Mt. Huashan (the last leg of our trip on a tour to the Silk Road), and we took great pride in that we managed to get up to the top with little rest .... and those were the days. But it wasn't until we climbed down to the wooden plank did we get our first taste of dose of Mt. Huashan.

We had our feet firmly on the wooden plank, our hands holding tight to the chain. Needless to say, we dared not look down. Taking deep breaths, we were debating hard whether we wanted to move on. We didn't even want to say the word "chicken".

There was just the chain and the wooden plank .... with the blue sky up above and the deep deep bottom down below. Speaking of safety harness, sorry, we never heard of them, and I doubted if they were commonly used by any amateur climbers, at the time. It was in the early 1980's anyway.

Two young souls too proud to admit "fear" or "defeat", but in our hearts, we both knew we were more than a bit scared ... an understatement. We spent a few minutes talking (probably a few seconds ... ), looking into each other's eyes, and in the end, we went back up.

It's probably one of my most greatest regrets in my life, but considering the danger and the risk, and seeing what you said about Mt. Huashan given your experience in mountain hiking (or climbing, if you have it:) ), I guess I can now live with the decision we made at the time.

I went back to visit Mt. Huashan with my wife-to-be 3 years later, and trying to impress her as I often did then, I went down to the plank again, and had a photo taken. I was told in no uncertain terms, of course, not to take the risk and I gladly complied .... though knowing well in my heart, I wouldn't want to take another step further :)

Thanks for the wonderful photos of Mt. Huashan - the landscape was just stunning and breath taking, and they surely brought back a lot of the fond memories from the good old days.

Kwong
 

RICK ARCHER'S REPLY:

From: Rick Archer
Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 6:07 PM
To: Kwong
Subject: RE: Mt. Huashan story

I have mixed feelings about my story. Based on reports from people like you, Huashan was EXTREMELY dangerous many years ago. Lately people have written to say that many safety improvements have reduced the risk considerably.

So, in a way, I suppose my original story about the danger is inaccurate by modern standards, but in the old days it was a dangerous trip indeed.

Thank you for your letter!

Rick Archer
 

From: Kwong
Sent: Tuesday, April 12, 2011 2:49 PM
To: Rick Archer
Subject: Re: Mt. Huashan story

Hi Rick,

It was kind of you to reply, as I didn't really expect to hear from you.

I wouldn't say that your story about the danger is inaccurate, whether by modern standards or not, and I dare anybody to take on the challenge to walk on the boardwalk on the cliff of Mt. Huashan.

From the photos I saw on your web, there appears to be some obvious improvements, such as the "wider" board than it was before, and the safety harness being now available, in addition to the rusty metal chain.

"Danger" is much more than a subjective perception and can be gauged objectively only by having regard to the totality of the surroundings, and as far as I am concerned, the boardwalk on Mt. Huashan is definitely not for the faint of heart.

Well, I guess I'm getting a bit older than I thought :)

Cheers and have a good day!

Kwong
 

JULY 2011 WIKIPEDIA UPDATE ON HUASHAN

Rick Archer's Note: It has now been three complete years since I came under intense criticism for my original article on Huashan by a man named Antoine.  The criticism leveled at the time was that the climb at Huashan was nowhere as dangerous as I made it out to be.  In addition to pointing out that Huashan was so easy that Antoine saw an 8 year old child climbing it, he added: "Whatever your decision, remember that I am not the first one to be upset with your website. So much that even wikipedia has a paragraph written on your false claims."
 
Wikipedia?  I was horrified.  My respect for Wikipedia knows no bounds - it is a blessing to all of us and I contribute money every year at Christmas.  The thought of being criticized to the entire world on Wikipedia upset me greatly. 

I rushed to the Internet and discovered Antoine was correct.  Some sniper named Chong-Dae Park actually had the nerve to suggest that I had made everything up in an attempt to become an Internet sensation.  I was stunned by this deeply personal and quite public attack on my honesty by someone I had never met.  I was further incensed that the man had said these things about me in a public forum without having the courtesy to contact me first to discuss the issue. 

When I first wrote my article on Huashan in January 2007,  I made my conclusions of Huashan's danger based on the pictures and stories that appeared on the Internet  at the time.   There really wasn't much material to go on.  In fact, Wikipedia didn't even have a reference page on Huashan.  Furthermore, the truly accurate information was inaccessible to me because it was written in Chinese and my Google searches were in English.  I was operating with one arm tied behind my back. 

Nevertheless, I was the first Western person to actually take the time to write a story about the place.  My 2007 story was instrumental in creating a tremendous amount of interest in a place most Westerners never knew existed.

So was my original conclusion that Huashan was dangerous a fair one?  Absolutely.  Given the reports that were available to me at the time, the climb at Huashan had resulted in several fatalities.  Furthermore, the pictures were terrifying.  That said, given that I had never seen the place personally, I was not only well aware I was flying blind on this story, I took the time to point this out to my readers. 

Over the past four years, I have received many well-meaning letters from people who said they had written to suggest that maybe Huashan wasn't nearly as dangerous as I made it out to be.  As any reader can see, I posted every one of these letters. 

Many of these writers pointed out there seemed to be recent safety updates.  I came to the conclusion that as China opened it doors to the Western world, the tourism boom made it necessary to upgrade the safety features of the climb.   As many people have pointed out, the safety of the climb still isn't quite up to "Western standards", but today the climb is nowhere near as dangerous as my original article made it out to be.

In other words, if you are in good health and have good balance, as long as you pay attention, the climb at Huashan is within most people's reach. 

Out of curiosity, in July 2011 I took another look at Wikipedia.  I flinched as the page opened, fully expecting to become irritated again at seeing the suggestion I had written my "false article" in a desperate attempt to become an Internet sensation.

Instead, I was quite pleased to see the insulting reference to my story had been completely removed.  In its place was a well-written paragraph that basically said the same thing I did... that Huashan was once very dangerous and that fatalities had indeed occurred, but that recent safety improvements had made the climb much safer.   Read for yourself immediately below.  RA

2011: Wikipedia on Huashan (as of July 2011) "Huashan has historically been a place of retreat for hardy hermits, whether Daoist, Buddhist or other; access to the mountain was only deliberately available to the strong-willed, or those who had found "the way". With greater mobility and prosperity, Chinese, particularly students, began to test their mettle and visit in the 1980s. The inherent danger of many of the exposed, narrow pathways with precipitous drops gave the mountain a deserved reputation for danger. As tourism has boomed and the mountain's accessibility vastly improved with the installation of the cable car in the 1990s, visitor numbers surged.   Despite the safety measures introduced by cutting deeper pathways and building up stone steps and wider paths, as well as adding railings, fatalities continued to occur. The local government has proceeded to open new tracks and created one-way routes on some more hair-raising parts, such that the mountain can be scaled without significant danger now, barring crowds and icy conditions. Some of the most precipitous tracks have actually been closed off. The former trail that leads to the South Peak from the North Peak is on a cliff face, and it was known as being extremely dangerous; there is now a new and safer stone-built path to reach the South Peak temple, and on to the Peak itself."

Letter Thirty One: Huashan Not Dangerous, but very crowded

From: Stephen Drake
Sent: Sunday, July 24, 2011 10:30 PM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Hua Shan - May 2011 Hiking

Rick,

In May while on my honeymoon, I spent a day hiking around on Hua Shan, visiting the North and West peaks after taking the cable car up. I've made a complete write-up of the day on Hua Shan on my journal of the trip to China. Click on the "May 14, 2011" link to the pdf file. I have pictures of our complete day of hiking and not just the "scary" pictures which so many people focus on.

Note: If you want to link to my journal of my day on Hua Shan, please link to the above html page and not to the pdf file. The pdf file is large and I'd prefer to not have people using a lot of bandwidth on my website without actually visiting it. Thanks.

I read every word on your website on Hua Shan before we went and really didn't know what to expect because so many people have given you so many diverse opinions.

First, the "fear" of hiking Hua Shan is overblown in many of your pictures and descriptions. My wife and I are not great hikers and are in average shape. I'm very much scared of heights. NEVER did we get on a trail where we were confronted with our fears or doing something outside of our comfort level. We did not see any of the scary places that are in pictures on your website, it's totally my understanding that those are optional side trips. Any time there was a trail that required the use of a chain or any additional effort besides normal walking, there was an alternate, easy route around it. When the trail had a long dropoff on one side, there was a very sturdy railing.

Second, I didn't see any limitations of the type of people on the trail. There were people young and old. We saw kids as young as 5 or 6 hiking on it and also many senior citizens. We saw people who were hiking in dress shoes and totally not dressed appropriately for hiking. The most dangerous part of the hike was the high number of people crowded onto the trails.

Third, the line to take the cable car down was absolutely brutal. It was an hour and a half of pushing and shoving. That was the only time during the day I was scared of anything. I thought it was dangerous as everyone was pushing on everyone else in the confined space of the line.

The weather on our day of hiking it was warm and sunny, really ideal.

Anyway, you say you haven't been to Hua Shan. You must go.

Stephen Drake


Rick Archer's Note: Stephen Drake wrote an excellent story of his climb complete with pictures.  In particular, look for the May 14th link which guides you to Stephen's Huashan story.

Letter Thirty Two:

From: joseph
Sent: Tuesday, April 03, 2012 1:04 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Huashan carriers

Weinan, April the 3rd 2012.

Hello Rick,
Thanks for your wonderful web page about HuaShan.  I climbed it the day before yesterday. Huashan is one of the best walks I have ever done.
It's amazing, awesome.

Today, I've found your website and took a lot of pleasure to read your article and the letters.

For me, HuaShan is physically hard. If you walk from the village and visit the 5 peaks, this is about 2000 meters of difference in level, mainly on stairs sometime really steeply.

Nowadays it is not dangerous but you must pay attention every step especially in case of rain or of snow. Everybody, in good shape, should pay a visit if travelling in the area. If they think it's too hard, there is the gondola to save some difficulty and sweet.

But for me something doesn't appear on your web page or in the comment and is missing, the carriers [see pictures].

Everything in HuaShan is brought by carriers : the bottles of water, the food, the sand and cement and even fridges. These guys are really incredible, they just climb as if they where alone, carrying 30 to 50 Kg on their back.  Some Chinese told me that it's very expensive to buy goods in HuaShan, but when you see them, it's not true.

Such an exiting place.

Joseph
 

Letter Thirty Three:

From: Louise Daniel
Sent: Wednesday, April 11, 2012 8:21 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Mt Huashan

Rick,

All I would say is you should go there yourself before writing about it... how can you write articles like this when can't verify the truth of what you write? I did the hike in 1988 and it wasn't dangerous or scary. [Editor's Note: read letter below]

It was awe inspiring because the route was built for spiritual reasons - so that pilgrims could to reach the top of a holy mountain. NOT for tourists or mountaineers. There are several holy mountains in China with this kind of steep step climbing with chains to hold on to.

Anyone who is scared of heights shouldn't attempt anything like this, it goes without saying, just as you wouldn't climb a high mountain in the Rockies or Scottish Highlands or do any kind of rock climbing.

The Chinese are never scared of anything - it's their attitude to life. They are tough, they don't fear death. Because for them, this climb is a spiritual one, but also because they have survived one a hell of a lot over the centuries.

But good to see they Chinese have made the climb safer.

That's all.  Louise Daniel

Letter Thirty Four:  Report of a Fatality

From: M
Sent: Sunday, June 10, 2012 8:53 AM
To: dance@ssqq.com
Subject: Hua Shan

Mr. Archer,

I am a 23 year old American recent-graduate teaching in Xi'an, China. I just came across your website and decided to write to you.

Yesterday I climbed Hua Shan for the first time and witnessed someone fall to their death.

I was on a school-sponsored trip to Hua Shan and made it to the top of the East Peak with another foreign teacher. There was a group of three Chinese people at the same spot. One wanted a picture with me and the second friend took it. At the same time, the third friend, a man probably early-40s, was taking a picture of the view. We were in a completely allowed tourist section of the mountain, he was on the correct side of the rail, just standing. He slipped on the edge of a worn-down rock and I looked up just to see his feet go over.

The following is a morbid detail but I feel like I have to include it when I relate this story because it's the last thing I know about what happened. He didn't make any sound, but we heard his body hit the mountain three times a few seconds apart (I suppose only one second apart, it felt like a few), and then that was all. From the east peak, the mountain is straight down. There is nothing to grab, no where to land except the bottom. It must be a full 10 second fall to the bottom. My friend and I left the peak almost immediately after ensuring the other two Chinese people had come with the man and would make sure something someone knew what happened. An hour and a half later we had descended back down to where the cable car leaves from, where about seven of the mountain police staff were sitting around chatting and snacking. I came across your website as I was trying to find news about the accident, but have found nothing.

Probably nothing will be done, although to be fair probably nothing can be as it would be almost impossible to find the body. I will certainly never return to Hua Shan in my life or allow anyone I care about to visit either. Although all of the letters about it being safe are reasonable, it's only safe until something happens--and things really do happen there.

Trust me I am not a crazy thrill seeker; I couldn't even be bothered to do the whole mountain but instead took the cable car. I was there in the middle of the day, doing what I was supposed to, with my school. This man was exactly the same. Tourists should absolutely not be allowed on that mountain.

Feel free to do or not do anything you want with my letter, but please don't use my name or email as I perhaps should not be writing this from China. I'm not interested in influencing your page but just felt like writing to a sympathetic listener. Hope all is well in your part of the world.

Regards,
M.