Road to Hana 2013
Part Two

Written by Rick Archer
February 2014

The Day Begins

It is now Tuesday, October 1, 2013.  Yesterday we visited Waikoloa Village on the Big Island.  Today our ship has arrived in Lahaina.  This is our Big Day: The Road to Hana Revisited. 

Both Marla and I were bitterly disappointed to cut our trip short on our previous trip to the island in 2007.  Now we have a second chance.  We have big plans to see the Seven Sacred Pools, the big attraction in Kipahulu at the end of the Road to Hana. We have our bathing suits ready; we're going swimming!!

The bad news is that our 2013 ship was docked in Lahaina, not in Kahului like it was back in 2007.  This added 14 miles to our trip in both directions.  I estimated this add an hour to our day.

Another delay is the need to take a "tender" to shore.  Since our ship was docked well out in the water, Marla and I were forced to wait in line to get on a "tender", a mobile boat that ferries passengers to and from the ship.

Just as we got off the tender, we were dismayed to see the car rental shuttle bus driving off.  We had walked to our car rental place yesterday, but that was not an option today. Since the rental office was five miles away, we had no choice but to wait.

For lack of anything better to do, Marla and I sat down.  Now we waited.  And we waited.  And we waited some more. 

30 minutes passed.  Patience is a necessary skill to develop when you travel because there will always be inevitable delays.  Thanks to Marla's experience, she finds ways to sidestep some of the delays, but we do our fair share of waiting as well.

As we waited, more passengers from the ship got off the tenders and joined us.  Now Marla was worried there was a chance we wouldn't get a seat on the next shuttle because there seemed to be more people waiting than the shuttle bus could hold.

This crowded situation led to a very strange development.

Many modern cruise ships have become so enormous that they simply cannot dock close to shore in the waters of certain ports.  So the ship has to 'tender' its passengers to shore. This picture shows a tender ship coming to pick us up and take us into Lahaina. Sorry to say, but Tendering is a pain in the butt and a big waste of time.

Note the clouds over the West Maui volcano and the brown slopes. Since Lahaina is on the "leeward side", it doesn't get much rain.

The Hawaiian Golf Course Lifestyle

Rick's Note:  Apparently there are two kinds of golf courses in Hawaii. Some courses like the one above are carved right out of the lush jungle. 

Other golf courses like this one at Waikoloa are reclaimed from vast barren lava fields by putting sod atop the lava, then growing grass by means of extensive irrigation.  The next step is to build huge resorts, malls and luxury estates along the perimeter of the golf courses.   I wrote a story about this golf phenomenon in a previous article Waikoloa Village.

Maui Golf Courses

Did you know that they take golf very seriously in Hawaii?? 

Golf is to Hawaii as gambling is to Vegas.  Golf is the lure that brings the big spenders to its shores.  In case this is news to you, here is a typical Internet blurb. 

Welcome to Golf Paradise!   Blessed with breathtaking scenery, unforgettable signature holes and championship caliber course design, it's no wonder Hawaii attracts so many golfers from around the world. Hawaii is famous for is its collection of world-class golf courses.  If your conception of Hawaii is just about the beaches, cliffs, and volcanoes, then it's time you include golf with the idea of Hawaii.   Challenges abound from greens lined with volcanic rough to stunning seaside water hazards. As a scenic destination, only a few places in the world can be compared to the beauty of Hawaii's coastline and beaches.  Where else can you find a golf course with jungle, ocean, lava and looming volcanoes?  With more than 70 amazing golf courses to choose from, it won't be difficult to find the perfect course for you.  This will be your golf experience of a lifetime. Make Hawaii your next Golf Destination.

Rudeness in Boston

People take their golf in Hawaii seriously.  Unfortunately, some people take it a little too seriously.  Our 2013 visit to Maui set the scene for one of the most incredible incidents of rudeness I have ever witnessed in all my travels.

Previously the most memorable incident of rudeness took place in a Boston hotel during our 2006 New England cruise.

There were four of us in the lobby.  Marla's brother Larry had just begun checking in for his room while Marla and I stood nearby chatting with Larry's wife Roz.  The lobby was fairly deserted.  There was no long line.  In fact, Larry was the only guest in line and there was only one clerk on duty.

The clerk was busy clicking away at the computer keyboard to confirm Larry's reservation.  In other words, the 'process' was already in progress.

Out of nowhere, a well-dressed, white-haired older man walked up and cut in front of Larry.  To do so, he had to actually insert himself between Larry and the counter. 

As he jostled Larry out of position, the man smiled at Larry, then uttered these words, "I'm sorry, but I am important and I am in a hurry."  That's all the guy said.  He didn't bother to check to see if this was okay with Larry or not.  Instead, the guy turned his back and started ordering the hotel clerk around.

Marla, Roz and I saw the whole thing.  To our astonishment, the hotel clerk stopped Larry's confirmation process and began to wait on the Important Man instead. 

Larry stood there dumbfounded.  He was so surprised he didn't know what to say.  That made two of us!  I had never seen anything like this before.  Like Larry, I just stood there in open-mouthed shock. The nerve of that guy to push Larry aside!!

I was ready to say something to the Important Man about "manners", but the two women pulled me back.  Don't make a scene!  So I just stood there and seethed.  Of all the nerve!
 

Rudeness in Maui

Among the people that had joined us to wait for the Maui shuttle were two separate "foursomes".  Based on their dress and demeanor, the eight people seemed wealthy.  Each person seemed slightly older than me, maybe late sixties.  I kick myself for not taking pictures; it would have made my story easier to tell.  Just take my word for it they had "The Well-Healed Look".

Since there was absolutely nothing else to do, I observed both groups in action.  The first foursome was completely aloof. They stayed to themselves and carefully guarded their four bags of golf clubs.

Golf clubs?  I frowned.  This foursome seemed to be from the ship.  Who on earth takes their golf clubs with them on a cruise trip?  Wouldn't it be easier to simply rent clubs at the course? 

Of course I have to admit I don't 'understand' golf.  I'm sure there must be a perfectly valid reason to haul those clubs around.

The second foursome was very nice.  They did not have golf clubs.  The two ladies sat near me and I made friends with them.  Like us, they were waiting for the shuttle. 

Tired of waiting, one of their husbands had a very good idea.  He pulled over a cab.  Without fanfare or warning, just like that the four of them got in.  In return for the $30 cab fare, they were able to beat the huge crowd to the car rental joint.  Gee, wouldn't it be nice to be rich?

As I pondered the value of this clever move, some pretty girls in a wedding party crossed our path on the way to a limousine.  I waved at them and got some great smiles in return.  It is so much fun to flirt with pretty girls... in an innocent way of course.

Then I noticed someone was frowning at me.  Ah, Marla.  No, she wasn't jealous.  She was mad because I wasn't paying attention (a common theme on trips; I get distracted easily).

Marla was irritated with me because the bus had just appeared in the distance and I was fooling around taking pictures.  She had a point.  I was so preoccupied, I didn't realize the bus was here.  Actually no one else did either. Only Marla knew.

There are advantages and disadvantages to having a brilliant wife.  The main disadvantage is that Marla is "right" about things much more often than me. 

This is terrible for my self-esteem.  Whatever happened to the rule that girls are supposed to play dumb so boys like me can feel better about themselves?  Instead I am frequently left feeling inadequate. It hurts a lot. People call me "Mr. Marla".

It doesn't help that Marla says she married me for three reasons in particular.  One reason is to step on bugs at home and get rid of them.  Another reason is that she needed someone to carry her heavy luggage on trips.  I don't mind this role, but I do wish she wouldn't refer to me behind my back as "The Big Lug". 

On the other hand, there are advantages to having a smart wife. Marla definitely catches onto things faster than the average citizen.  Marla already knew what the shuttle looked like because earlier she had taken note of the first bus in the distance as it pulled away.  Consequently Marla spotted the shuttle's return long before anyone else had any idea.

Now Marla asked me to move into position before the rest caught on. So I hustled over to the likely pickup spot.  Here is where I come in handy.  Marla may be smarter than the average citizen, but I am bigger than the average citizen. 

Once I was first in line, no one was going to dislodge me.  That's the other reason she married me.

Thanks to my massive frame, Marla was the first person on the bus.  And of course I sat next to her.  The two of us were all set in the most convenient seat.   

However, people were having trouble climbing past me to sit in the back. To make things easier, I got out of my seat and went back outside.  Marla and my back pack guarded my spot.

Soon the bus was nearly full.  I watched as one of the two men in the "aloof foursome" raced to open the front door and plunge himself into the solo seat beside the driver. 

That's when I noticed his three companions were still outside the bus and looking very worried.  I also noticed that the bus was nearly full.  I looked again and realized there was only one seat left for these three people. 

The wife of the man in the front seat was right next to me. She had a perplexed look on her face.  I offered to let her sit in the final spot next to Marla.  There was room on our seat for three people, so now Marla scooted from the middle over to the window to make room for the golf lady.  My back pack occupied the one remaining spot on the edge of the seat for me.

The golf wife, a slender woman, was stuck carrying two golf bags... his bag and her bag.  The woman could barely lift the golf clubs, so I came to her rescue.  I told her to be seated next to Marla and I would take care of the golf bags.  I put one bag on the floor in front of Marla.  There wasn't room on the floor for the other bag.

The husband had remained seated the whole time as I handled his golf clubs for him.  From there, he turned around and watched everything like a hawk.  Noticing my back pack, he barked at me to move the back pack and put the second set of golf clubs in the place where I would be sitting. 

I don't know if he realized that was my seat or not.  It seems difficult to believe he was that oblivious. 

I was incredulous. I had not expected that.  Did this man really expect me to give up my own seat for his golf clubs?  Now Marla stared darts at me as if she thought I was lackey enough to follow this blowhard's absurd demand.   

I told the man politely that was my seat and he needed to find room for his clubs up front.  Without bothering to apologize, he said there was no room up front.  I frowned and prepared to get into it with him. 

Fortunately a confrontation was avoided when a man in back volunteered there was room on the floor in back.  So I handed the second bag of clubs over people's heads till the bag reached the back.  Now this particular issue was solved. 

However, we weren't done yet.

As I climbed in to take my seat, the second couple lingered outside the shuttle bus.  I assumed they were out of luck; they were the only people who had not gotten a seat.  Now I saw the wealthy man up front conferring with the bus driver.  Never in my wildest dreams could I have imagined what came next.

The bus driver made an announcement.  He said the four people with the golf clubs had an early pre-paid appointment at an extremely exclusive golf course here on Maui.  If they missed their "tee time", they would likely never get another chance. 

Would two people please get off the bus to make room?

That explanation didn't make much sense to me. You can always squeeze someone with an existing reservation into a round of golf (just let someone else start early)... but I let it pass. 

Instead I focused on the reaction to the bus driver's request.  I looked at Marla and Marla looked at me. Out of respect for the golf wife next to us, we didn't say a word, but we both thought the same thing.  Are these people out of their minds? 

If this tee time was so damn important, why didn't they hail a cab like the other two couples?  Too cheap or too stupid?

The nerve of these people to think their lives were more important than these other people on the bus.

Well, no one budged.  So the bus driver shrugged his shoulders to Mr. Golf Club and APOLOGIZED.  Now Mr. Golf Club opened the window and told the second couple to just wait here.  He would drive back with the rental car and pick them up.

And with that, the shuttle took off.  I was curious about Mrs. Golf Club sitting next to me.  I still had a hard time believing her husband had been so worried about getting that seat that he had left her standing outside holding both golf bags.

So I struck up a conversation.  Mind you, no harsh words had been said; she didn't realize the contempt I felt for her husband.  I quickly learned a fascinating fact: both couples lived in Honolulu on nearby Oahu just 90 miles across the water.

This meant they had flown to San Diego in order to cruise back to their own islands.  This seemed more than slightly out of the way, so I wanted to know more.  But I needed to disguise my true colors.  So I used an old trick - I complimented the quality of the golf clubs in the bag at our feet. 

Oh my goodness, that worked wonders.  The story gushed out. Both men were avid golfers.  However, since it was expensive to travel from island to island even for a Hawaiian resident, it was more convenient to hire a cruise ship as their personal ferry.

The men even had a way to write off this cruise as a business expense.  I asked how that worked.  She said her husband was claiming the other man as a consultant.  And the other man was claiming her husband as his consultant.  Apparently they had worked this scam many times over the years without problem. 

Mind you, the word 'scam' is my word, not hers.  She talked so matter of fact that I had to assume she not only approved, she couldn't imagine why there was anything wrong with it. 

Meanwhile I was strangely amused to discover it was cheaper for these golf fanatics to simply fly to San Diego, play the excellent golf courses there, then get on this ship and be ferried from island to island to play more famous golf courses.

I quietly asked another innocent question.  How many golf courses had they played so far on this trip?  She said five: two in San Diego, one in Hilo, two in Kona.  They would be playing two more famous courses today - Kapulua in the morning and and Wailea on the other side of the island in afternoon.  Plus they had an important dinner reservation in Lahaina that evening.

Aha.  Now I had my answer.  They weren't worried about losing their morning reservation; they were worried they wouldn't have enough time to make their afternoon reservation and still have enough time left for their dinner reservation. 

So little time, so much to do.  And that was my peek into the golf lifestyle of the rich and famous.  I concluded some people see life completely different than the rest of us.

Thanks to my visit to Waikoloa Village on the Big Island one day before my Road to Hana adventure, I was able to get a first hand look at this golf course reclaimed from a Mauna Kea lava range.

This an aerial photo of the same Waikoloa golf course where I took my picture above.  The red X shows where I was standing.

Just as Mount Haleakala blocks rainwater from reaching the south side of East Maui, these West Maui volcanic mountains prevent the clouds and the moisture from reaching Lahaina on West Maui.  This accounts for the barren landscape in the picture.

Here you can see Marla has her head cocked in disgust while I waste precious time taking pictures of these young ladies.

The Lady and the Lug.  I suppose I have had better hair days.

Maui is said to be home to some of the finest golf courses on the planet.  Unfortunately, since Lahaina doesn't get much rain, like Waikoloa it is forced to use artificial means to create its golf courses.  This picture shows is a lovely green golf course in front of the Westin Maui hotel where we picked up our rental car.  As one can gather, it owes its existence to the liberal use of water sprinklers.

Another Maui golf course carved out of lava.  Whatever your feelings about golf, you have admit this scenery is amazing.

This Maui golf course was carved out of the jungle near Hana

History of the Road to Hana

From our start point in Kaanapali next to Lahaina, Hana was said to be 81 miles away. Our first destination was to Kahului, a midway point some 20 miles from Kaanapali. Since it was all highway, we made fairly good time. It took us 30 minutes.

Kahului is the northern point of a large valley situated at the footsteps between Haleakala and the West Maui volcano.  Kahului is important mainly because it is centrally located at the crossroads of everything on the island.  Not only does the city feature a deep port and an airport, it serves as the gateway to the Road to Hana.

When Marla and I visited Maui back in 2007, our ship was docked in Kahului.  The advantage was that our starting point was much closer to Mount Haleakala and the Road to Hana.

Kahului was our friend six years ago, but not today.  This time we found Kahului to be a major pain in the neck.  I swear the main drag seemed to have a stop light and a mall on every block.  The traffic was terrible.  It took 20 minutes or so just to get through one mile of this bottleneck. 

Fortunately, once we left the town, we hit open roads again.  That is when I saw several sugar cane fields.  Apparently the Road to Hana owes much of its existence to the once vitally important sugar cane industry on the island.

Before the English even came to Jamestown, Virginia, in 1607, the Road to Hana existed as a footpath through the jungle and along the beach.  The ancient Hawaiian natives certainly had no need for large roads.  When the rains made the footpath unusable, they could just as easily use their ocean canoes to get wherever they wanted to go.  

The Hana coast is rich in Hawaiian history. It has been the scene of many turning points in Hawaiian culture. It was the 15th-century King Piilani who first united the island of Maui. 

Unlike previous kings, Piilani was a builder. He was more interested in development than further conquest.  He built fishponds, irrigation fields, paved roads, and the massive Piilanihale Heiau temple, which still stands today in Kahanu Garden.  It was Piilani's sons and grandson who built the first Road to Hana.  It stretched from west Maui, along the coast, and up the Kaupo Gap and through the Haleakala Crater.

In memory of his deeds, today's Highway 31 on the backside of Haleakala is known as the "Piilani Highway". 

For centuries, thanks in large part to Haleakala's massive daily ration of rainwater, Hana has been a prime location for farming.

In 1849, a cantankerous sea captain named George Wilfong brought commerce to this isolated village by starting the first sugar plantation on 60 acres.  Because his harsh personality and unreasonable demands for plantation work did not sit well with the Hawaiians, they rebelled.  Wilfong bypassed the locals and brought in Chinese immigrants, the closest thing to slave labor.

Shortly after that King Kalakaua entered into an agreement to import sugar into the United States duty-free.

In 1864, August and Oscar Unna, two Danish brothers, contributed to the growth of the local sugar industry by establishing the Hana Plantation.  Four years later they brought in Japanese immigrants to labor in the fields.

By 1883, due in large part to demand created by King Kalakaua’s treaty, the number of sugar plantations in Hana had grown to six large estates.

At the turn of the 20th century, sugar wasn't the only crop booming in the Hana area.  By 1900, rubber was being commercially grown in Nahiku, wheat in Kaupo, pineapple in Kipahulu, and tobacco in Ulupalakua.

At this time there were small roads going from one plantation to another as well as partial routes from Paia to Hana.

Like Kahului, Paia was situated on the north shore of the isthmus in the foothills of Haleakala.  Paia had wide open fields perfect for farmland, but it was also located right on the doorstep of the tropical jungle created by Haleakala.  Therefore the Road to Hana uses both Hana and Paia as its bookends.

Paia became Hana's "land line" to the rest of Maui.  As the sugar cane industry expanded in the late 1880s, goods were frequently transported through narrow paths carved in the jungle along the coast.  The problem was a lack of reliable roads to bring workers to and from Hana or to carry goods out from the town’s thriving plantations.  Any good rain storm could destroy these footpaths. 

The solution came in the early 1900s.  A prison was built in the town Keanae located halfway between Paia and Hana.  Keanae was chosen as the site of the prison because prisoners and supplies could be brought there by using a large dock. 

At this time pickax-wielding convicts carving a very narrow coastal highway out of the lava rock and jungle.  At the same time a total of 59 bridges had to be built over the countless ravines and fissures created by the constant rainfall. Locals from Keanae and Hana were hired to maintain the road as it was being built.  This primitive road was finally opened in 1926. 

The opening of the road in 1926 brought with it a surprise.  Now for the first time the outside world was able to discover the tiny little village of Hana.  However, it took considerable effort.  The mud and gravel road was extremely tough on any vehicle. 

Furthermore the road was very undependable.  Thanks to the constant daily attack of rainfall, the road was often vulnerable to landslides and washouts. 

However, despite the headaches with the road, the Hana community was largely prosperous during the first half of the Twentieth Century.

 

The Darkness of the Forties

Then came the Forties.  Now all hell broke loose as 3 major disasters hit the area.  The first disaster we all know about, something called "Pearl Harbor" and "the day which will live in infamy".  Although Maui itself was not damaged, things would never be the same on the islands in general. 

The second disaster was much different. On April Fools Day in 1946, an earthquake off the coast of the Aleutian Islands in Alaska spawned a series of gigantic tsunami waves. One wave as high as a 13-story building hit the northeast coast of Maui.

The damage along the Hana coast was catastrophic: The Keanae Peninsula was swept clear (only the stone church remained), the town of Hamoa was totally wiped out, and several entire villages completely disappeared.

There were no early warning systems in place in those days.  The massive waves came as a total surprise.  Only heroic efforts such as this story kept the death toll from being worse:

"Mr. Hilario Aquino said that when the waves hit the church, he was tossed out amidst the children. He swam about rescuing the children and lifting them up into the large trees of the church yard.  When the waves subsided, 10 of the children were found safely clinging to the trees.  Their parents all agreed that Mr. Aquino had saved their lives."

-- From the Honolulu Star Bulletin, April 05, 1946

The third disaster may have been the worst of all.  The sugar cane industry went into decline after World War II. Apparently the Maui locals who had served in the Pacific Theater during the war were no longer willing to work the sugar cane plantations for the kind of wages that were being offered.  The labor unrest that followed was the death knell for this struggling industry.

Charles Brewer, owner of the largest sugar plantation in Hana, decided to shut down his operation instead of fighting the labor union. The closure of the plantation meant not only the loss of thousands of jobs, but also the loss of plantation-supplied homes and the entire plantation way of life.  The loss of the agriculture industry was crippling.

The Fifties continued to be a time of trouble for the island as many of the population left to find employment elsewhere. For a while there, the Hana area became a ghost town of sorts.
 

Resurrection

Hana regained its happiness thanks to two bright spots.  I assume most of you have heard of legendary baseball star Joe DiMaggio, husband of some lady named Marilyn Monroe. 

Back when DiMaggio was starting his baseball career, he played for the San Francisco Seals, a highly popular minor league team.

The Seals baseball team was owned by Paul Fagan, a man who fell absolutely in love with the Hana area.  Paul Fagan was an entrepreneur from San Francisco who had bought the Hana Sugar Company.  He would go on to become the town's savior.

Fagan wanted to retire in Hana, so he focused his business acumen on this tiny town with its big problems.  Recognizing that sugar was no longer economically feasible, he looked at the community and saw other opportunities. He bought 14,000 acres of land in Hana, stripped the sugar cane away, planted grass, and shipped in 300 Hereford cattle from his ranch on Molokai.  Overnight the cattle industry replaced the sugar cane industry.

Years ahead of his time, Fagan had another idea too. Fagan thought 'tourism' might have a future in Hana.  So he built a small six-room inn and named Kauiki Inn. This later became the Hotel Hana-Maui, today a popular spot to visit in Hana.

When Fagan opened the hotel in 1946, he said it was for first-class, wealthy travelers, the sort of people who were his friends. Not only did his friends come, but he also pulled off a public-relations coup that is still talked about today.

In 1947, Fagan's baseball team, the San Francisco Seals, needed a spot for spring-training area.  Why not use Hana?

So Fagan brought out the entire team to train in Hana. More important, he brought the Frisco sportswriters along with him.  The sportswriters were blown away by the beauty. They penned glowing reports about the town.

"The place beggars description," wrote Harry Borba in the old San Francisco Examiner in February 1947. "The Seals ballplayers should pay for the privilege of training in such indescribably beautiful surroundings."

One writer gave the town a name that stuck: "Heavenly Hana".

Another stroke of good fortune for the Maui area came at the end of the Fifties.  1959 brought Statehood to Hawaii in the 1959 and with it an influx of land development.

However, the growth of Maui tourism did not happen overnight. it would be another 3 decades before Maui became the popular visitor destination in Hawaii we take for granted today.

Back then, Oahu's Waikiki Beach was the undisputed king in the tourism industry.  It saw some 16,000 visitors a year by the end of the 1960s, and some 4 million a year by the end of the 1970s.  However, once Honolulu became overdeveloped, entrepreneurs began looking around at the other islands.

In 1960, Amfac, owner of Pioneer Sugar Co., looked at the area outside of Lahaina that was being used to dump sugar-cane refuse.  Might there be another use for the beachfront land? The company decided to build a manicured, planned luxury resort in the Kaanapali area next door.  They built it, and people came.

Soon after that, the time had finally come to improve the road.  The Hana Highway was paved in 1962.  Although the sugar cane industry had ceased to be important, now that a car could safely traverse the coastline, tourism grew to fill the void. 

Today the road is primarily a tourist attraction.  Although of course it serves as a means for locals to travel from one area of the island to another, the tourists far outnumber the locals.

It is officially 48 miles from the crossroads town of Kahalui to Hana.  If you don't stop for any reason, the drive will take two and a half hours.  However, it is impossible to resist the urge to stop and look at things. 

Since the road is full of extreme twists and turns, the recommended speed limit is 15 miles per hour.  Due to the constant danger of blind curves, you will not want to go much faster than that.  In addition, there are numerous one lane bridges that create delays.  Furthermore, you are at the mercy of the slowest drivers.  Since it is extremely dangerous to pass anyone, it is not unusual to get stuck in a line of 10 or 20 cars.

Most people suggest to just slow down and get on Maui Time. Indeed Marla and I took our sweet time pulling over to see the bridges and waterfalls and the scenic overlooks.  Depending on your choices, the drive to will run anywhere from the minimum of 2.5 hours to 4 to 5 hours.   Don't hurry, be happy.

That is not Haleakala in the background of the sugar cane crops, but rather a rugged complex of mountains just west of Kahului known as the "West Maui Mountains". 

Although these mountains pale in comparison to the gigantic Haleakala, they are actually pretty impressive in their own right.  If you have ever heard of the Iao Needle, you can find this unusual formation in the center of those mountains.

Pa'ia is said to be start of the Road to Hana.  If you are low on gas, get it here.  The next gas station is in Hana 50 miles to the east.

I am sure you have heard the pace of the traffic on the Road to Hana can be maddening slow at times.  If Pa'ia is 50 miles from Hana and takes over two hours, that works out to about 20 miles per hour.

Here is Hana's current baseball field. It is located 300 yards from the ocean in the same spot where the "Seals" once trained. That "360" stands for Highway 360, better known as "The Road to Hana".

Another picture of the Road that has made Hana famous.  You really do not want to drive aggressively on this road.  These curves make it impossible to see some oncoming vehicle from the other direction.

Confusion on Maui

• No one can decide where the Road to Hana begins. 

From what I gather, both Kahului and Pa'ia argue over which is the "true" start point for the Road to Hana. The Wikipedia listing for "Hana Highway" cites Kahului as the start point.

It took the President of the United States to finally solve the problem.  In 2000, President Bill Clinton renamed the Hana Highway.  Calling it the “Hana Millennium Legacy Trail”, the official trail starting point was now listed as Pa'ia. I am sure you find the debate fascinating.

• No one seems to know to measure distance.

Many of the tour guides use Kahului as their measuring point for the Road to Hana.  Some books say the Road to Hana is 68 miles long.  Other books say Hana is 52 miles from Kahului.  One person said she was positive the distance is 48 miles.

I think the discrepancies have something to do with measuring the end point.  Some people measure to Hana.  Other people measure to Kipahulu or Lindbergh's Grave, both of which are located well past Hana.

Personally, when I measured the distance between Kahului and Kipahulu using Google Earth, I got 50 miles, not 68.

So is the distance from Kahului to Kipahulu 68 miles long or is it 50 miles long?  Maybe the experts measure the distance based on all those 600 S-curves.  Sort of like our intestines... you know, the small intestine is 20 feet long and the large intestine is 5 feet long and they both fit in a space half a foot long.

• And that brings up another question.  Why is the small intestine longer than the large intestine?  I don't get it.  You know, I could go crazy figuring all this stuff out.

• Another thing I don't understand are the markers on the side of the road.  I found the signs along the road to be either utterly useless or non-existent.  Considering how much wealth the "Road to Hana" brings to this area, one would assume they would make this road as user-friendly as possible, but I think not.

Here is a blurb I found about the mile markers:

Did you know that the mile markers on the Road to Hana start over about 9.5 miles outside of Paia?  That is where Highway 36 officially ends, and county road 360 begins. When county road 360 begins, the mile markers start over at zero.

Since mile markers are the best way to navigate the Road to Hana, be sure to pay attention to the transition – it takes place near the Millennium Legacy Trail Monument.

Considering all the guide books use the mile markers to indicate the location of various places, I found it very strange that I could not find a single map on the Internet that actually showed the mile markers in relationship to the Road to Hana.

• I was curious to know how many people drive this road every day.  I should not have asked that question because I was very unhappy with the only answer I could find.

I found a City of Hana "statistics" page that suggested the average daily traffic was nearly 47,000 a day.  Hmm.  Now, is that 47,000 cars or 47,000 people? 

Considering they were discussing "bridges" at the time, it very well could be 47,000 vehicles crossing certain bridges per day.  Let's hope not.  I have a hard time believing 2,000 vehicles an hour cross those one-way bridges 24 hours a day.

If you are counting, that's 33 bridge crossings per minute.

And if it is 'people' they are counting, how do they get an accurate head count?  Do they weigh the cars as they cross the bridge?  "Now this car weighs like it has 4 people in it."

Whatever they are measuring, I find this "46,955" statistic to be preposterously high.  Maybe someone can explain.

• They say 2.2 million people visit Maui annually. (source: Go Hawaii).  That seems like a huge number, but when you do the math, 2.2 million averages out to about 6,000 people a day.

Now that number seems low.  For example, our cruise ship alone dropped 3,000 people into Lahaina two days in a row.

My conclusion is that the entire island is confused. No one can decide where the Road to Hana begins or ends.  They can't measure distance worth a flip.  None of their statistics make any sense and their road signs are utterly useless.

Thanks to "Old Machete Marko", I think I know what the problem is.  I suggest there is too much medical marijuana being grown in the jungle. No wonder they can't find that birth certificate.

Both Kahului and Paia argue over which is the "true" start point for the Road to Hana. 

Everyone seems to agree that the Road to Hana doesn't end in Hana, but rather in Kipahulu.  So why doesn't someone simply rename it
"The Road to Keep-a-Hula Hoop"?  That seems so much catchier.
 

Rick's Note:  If you don't believe those numbers exist, go look for yourself!   City of Hana, Go Hawaii
 

Rick's Note:  If you read my stories about Nahiku and the Blue Pool Waterfall, then you are well aware the locals can be very hostile at time towards the massive influx of tourists.

Driving the Road to Hana

Twin Falls

Well, the time has come to see what all the fuss is about. 

About ten miles down the road from Pa'ia, we came across our first place to visit.  It is a waterfall known as Twin Falls. 

You cannot see Twin Falls from the road, but this rickety little shack gives the average tourist such as myself an odd indication of its presence.

Here is a good review:

Twin Falls is the first waterfall on the Road to Hana. Several trails lead to these falls (which actually number more than two). These falls are not as spectacular as some of the other falls along the Road to Hana but, if you have the time and it is not raining, they are worth the stop. The first and closest set of Twin Falls has a rope swing that drops into a natural pool below the fall. The second Twin Falls is about another mile up Ho'olawanui Stream. Daredevils frequently jump from the top of these falls into the pool below. Recent rains can make the stream and waterfalls unpredictable and unsafe. Check on weather conditions before attempting these hikes.

Here is a less good review from Guide of Hawaii.

Twin Falls (Mile Marker 2) - By far the largest waste of time when starting the drive. We see cars by the dozen piled up here and we just can't put two and two together. Compared to what's ahead of you, it's a waste of time. We only note it here because so many people DO stop here. The vendors are very friendly and offer some good products, but other than that… just skip this stop.
 

And here is what the Twins Falls looks like.

Unfortunately, the second review was accurate.  It took us forever to find a parking spot, it was long walk, it was hard to get to, and very crowded. 

We should have kept driving.

Garden of Eden Arboretum

The Garden of Eden Arboretum is said to be about the halfway point on the way to Hana.

Marla and I drove up to the gate, but decided not to go in. 

As always in these situations, we didn't know how much time would be involved.

As it turned out, maybe we should have gone in. 

Here is what Guide of Hawaii had to say:

Garden of Eden (MM 10) - One of the best Gardens on Maui, we consider this a must see. The admission price is a bit steep at $15/person, but the Garden is meticulously maintained and worth a visit.

It offers several great panoramic overlooks of the Pacific and also offers you a view of both Lower and Upper Puohokamoa Falls.

On the way out you have the option of stopping in a gallery where you can find beautiful products made by local artists. Right before you exit the grounds there is little spot where they serve home made ice cream, definitely a treat if you are in the mood.

 

The Crazy One-Way Bridges

They say there are 52 bridges on the Road to Hana.  The vast majority of these bridge are one-way. 

In the picture on the right, I am "yielding"

In the picture below, it's my turn to cross the bridge.

The third picture indicates just how narrow these bridges are.

Once in a while, we arrived at the bridge at the same time as the car on the other side.  I estimate this happened at one bridge in five.  Since we were not in a hurry, I probably "yielded" more than my fair share.

Manners are quite important on the Road to Hana.

Panoramas

There are breath-taking vistas that present themselves at practically every turn of the road.  Wherever you look, there is beauty as far as the eye can see.

It is sights like these that have made the Road to Hana so popular.

One of the things I have noticed is you have to see it to appreciate it.  As I review my pictures from the trip, they don't have nearly the impact that I felt when I took them.  

The pictures do a good job of making me smile, but it is so much better to see these stunning panoramas in person.

I would take The Road to Hana again in a heartbeat.

Lower and Upper Puohokamoa Falls

Keanae Peninsula

A Quick Overview

The people at Hawaii Guide did a far better job of describing the next set of highlights than I can ever hope to, so I will simply share their excellent comments with our readers. 

What I like about Hawaii Guide is they are more than willing to speak up and say "no big deal".   I appreciate anyone who prefers to avoid the hype and pretend everything is paradise.  These guys call it like it is.

Lower and Upper Puohokamoa Falls (MM 11-12) - The lower falls is before the upper falls, and is posted with "Posted" no-trespassing signs. If you can get permission to stop like we did, it's a worth-while stop. This doesn't exactly stop the masses, as the fence has a giant hole in it and there's an extremely well worn path to a very pretty overlook of the falls (don't proceed any further than this).

We don't condone exploring areas that are posted, so whether you visit this spot or not is at your discretion. We did so with permission and thought the initial falls overlook was pretty; but nothing special. Upper Puohokamoa Falls is blocked access wise. If you want to see either of these falls legally, there's a much easier way. Stop in the Garden of Eden for a view of both falls from two respective lookouts within the garden.

Kaumahina State Wayside Park (MM 12) - A pretty park that was 'upgraded' facilities wise a few years ago. Offers nice views of Keanae Peninsula ahead of you, but beyond that, nothing worth stopping for; so you could easily skip this spot and never miss anything in our opinion.

Honomanu Bay Lookout (MM 14) - One of the best stops along the Hana Highway that allows you to actually SEE the Hana Highway as it snakes across the cliff side. Our favorite pull out is the very large one (on the mauka/inland side of the road) 4/10th of a mile past MM 14. The other pull outs are either obstructed by vegetation or do not offer the same quality view as the aforementioned pullout.

Keanae Peninsula and Village (MM 17) - Worth a stop if you have some extra time. The coastal views are beautiful, and it's a neat way to see one of Haleakala's most recent lava flows up close (you're on it).

Upper Waikani (Three Bears) Falls (MM 21) - This is one of the best falls on the Hana Highway when the weather is cooperating. A lot of rain can make the falls a rushing torrent of water, which is not as pretty as when it has a lighter flow.

Access to the falls, which you make at your own risk, is easiest from the makai (ocean side) of the bridge on the end towards Hana town. Cross under the bridge and proceed over to the falls using extreme caution. You'll be surprised just how BIG the falls are when you're standing before them.

Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park (MM 22) - In our opinion, it's a spot you can skip. We note it because everyone stops here for either the facilities or lunch. None of the waterfalls are worth stopping for, so keep on moving. 

After Puaa Kaa State Wayside park there are a number of stops we detail online and in our book – but most, if not all, can be skipped. Many of the waterfalls are small and not worth your time in our opinion.

Honomanu Bay Lookout

Upper Waikani (Three Bears) Falls

Puaa Kaa State Wayside Park

Waianapanapa State Wayside Park (MM 32) - One of the only black sand beaches on the island of Maui is at this spot. Also makes a great spot for lunch. You can probably skip the wet caves portion, we've never been overly impressed by that part of the park. Not to mention some folks seem to have used the caves as a restroom – so that's another good reason to skip them.

Hana Town - Honestly, no joke, nothing to see in Hana town besides a few little stores with souvenirs . Keep heading towards the Oheo Gulch if you've got time left, or turn back to see some of the smaller sights.

http://www.huffingtonpost.com/jennifer-evans-gardner/danger-falling-rocks-a-jo_b_795147.html
 

Touring the Road to Hana INDEPENDENTLY

Advantages
- It’s less expensive. If you’ve rented a car, the only added expense is the cost of the gas for the day. A family of four could save around $400 on a self guided tour.
- You have the freedom to stop where you want.
- You are sharing your experience with your traveling partner(s) only.
- You have a greater sense of adventure.

Disadvantages
- Finding landmarks on an extremely curvy road in a rainforest is a challenge. It’s very easy to miss stops, waterfalls and short hikes that you were hoping to find.
- Driving this road is challenging. There’s hundreds of curves plus dozens of one-lane bridges. It takes quite a bit of concentration for the driver and can be stressful. The driver doesn’t get to enjoy the scenery since he/she is focused on driving.
- Your rental vehicle could become a target of either theft or hostile behavior. (See my advice that you should NEVER leave valuables in your rental car.)
- You need to be careful about how you use your time in order to avoid driving home in the dark.
- If you are driving in a car, your view may be limited at times because of the height of hedges.
- Rental car agencies don’t contractually permit you to drive the full loop around the “back side” of the road to Hana.
_____________________________________________

Touring the Road to Hana on a GUIDED TOUR

Advantages
- Guided tours take all the stress out of driving this road.
- Everyone in your party gets to take in the scenery.
- Tour guides share many interesting history, stories, and legends about the sights along the road.
- Tour guides know the road very well. They won’t miss sharing the highlights with you.
- Your tour guide will most likely keep watch of any valuables you leave on the tour van.
- You’re less likely to be hassled by hostile local behavior.
- You don’t have to worry about how you are budgeting your time in order to avoid driving back in the dark.
- Some of the guided tours will take you around the “back side” of the road to Hana. (That road is not approved by the major rental car companies.)
- The view out of the van windows is a bit elevated, which allows you to see views over hedges.

Disadvantages
- Guided tours are much more expensive than driving independently. Budget at least $100 or more per person for a guided tour.
- You share your experience with a group of strangers – typically around 10 – 12 folks.
- You can’t stop whenever you want.

__

I think next time, I’ll take an organized tour just for comparison. How about you? What’s your preference? What additional advantages or disadvantages do you have?

—-

2011 Update: I did indeed take a guided tour of the Road to Hana with No Ka Oi Adventures. It was an excellent tour geared towards the person who likes hiking, secluded waterfalls and no crowds!


Originally posted at: Touring the Road to Hana Independently vs. Guided Tour | Go Visit Hawaii

http://www.govisithawaii.com/2010/04/14/touring-the-road-to-hana-independently-vs-guided-tour/

http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowTopic-g29220-i86-k3022028-Car_Rentals_and_the_road_to_Hana-Maui_Hawaii.html

http://www.hawaii-guide.com/maui/articles/is_the_road_to_hana_worth_it