THE TRIP TO THE ROMAN FORUM
Part Four: LOST
IN
ROME
Written by Rick Archer January, 2010
Our morning walk from St. Peter's Train Station to the Roman Forum
had not only been supremely frustrating, all that walking had really tired
Marla and myself out.
Our afternoon
of wandering around the Roman Forum and the neverending Palatine Hill had not
only been supremely frustrating, all that walking had worn us out even more.
We were now on
our last legs and hungry too. We had not eaten since early that morning.
Marla agreed with me that our trip to the Roman Forum had tired us
out so much that we would be nuts to try walking back to Vatican and
the nearby Saint Peter's Train Station. Besides, we probably
didn't have enough time to walk.
So we strolled
over to the Metro station next to the Colosseum and hopped on the
subway back to the Vatican. The trip cost us one euro apiece
and took about ten minutes. It was amazing how cheap, fast,
and easy this trip was. Maybe if Houston had mass transit
options this effective, our city would have more luck bidding for
the Olympics. But our city's obsession
with the almighty car makes the chance of that ever happening pretty
slim.
We got off the
subway at Station Ottaviano, named for the nearby
street Via Ottaviano, sister of Emperor Augustus. This was the same
subway station we had used the year before. I felt pretty good
because we were traveling in familiar territory.
Marla and I
stopped at a nearby pizzeria along Via Ottaviano for a quick bite.
Then we took a slight detour to Hotel Alimandi, the
hotel we had stayed at the year before, so I could pick up a fresh
copy of the Evil Map that I have used to help explain this story.
We began
to walk around the Vatican on our way to the train station. Right about the spot where the red arrow ends on the map, I got
lost. Even though we were in a limited area only a half mile
from the train station, I got so lost that I actually had a serious
panic attack. The Evil Map had struck again. I had just
entered the Zona Twilite Vaticano!!
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1. The
Ottaviano subway station services both S Pietro (St
Peters Square) as well as Musei Vaticani (the
Vatican Museum).
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2. Looking at
the map above, walking down Via Ottaviano, it is only three
blocks from the subway to the Vatican
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3. Hotel Alimandi
is located right across the street from the Vatican
Museum. I took a slight detour to pick up a fresh
copy of the Evil Map.
Truth be told, I had a love-hate relationship w that map.
Even though it misled me three times on this trip, I still
liked it better than my other two maps.
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4. The
Vatican Museum is located on the north side of
Vatican City. We visited here last year, but
unfortunately were too jet-lagged to fully appreciate it.
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5. That white
car is passing the front door of the Hotel Alimandi.
The Vatican Museum is right across the street.
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6. Using the
map above for reference, you can find the Piazza
Risorgimento at the northeast corner of the Vatican.
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7. Using the
map above for reference, you will see that Via Di
Porta Angelica runs parallel to the Vatican.
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8. Via
Di Porta Angelica. As you can see, the
afternoon sun is to the right. We were headed south
with the enormous Vatican wall just to our right.
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9. Here is a
quick peek inside Vatican City. I was in an odd mood.
I was still mad about getting lost last year, so I decided to
take a picture of every single street I passed for future
reference.
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10. I located
Via Corridori on the map.
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11. I located
Via Conciliazione on the map.
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12. I
definitely knew where I was on the Evil Map. I was
still doing
fine
at this point.
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13. The iconic
dome of St Peter's Basilica dominates the skyline of Rome.
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14. Saint
Peter's Square. It is so enormous!
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15. Our path
hugged the perimeter of St. Peter's Square.
The red arrow marks the spot where I got lost.
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Three things
happened in quick succession.
First, we ran into Margie Ortega and Deborah Ebner,
two friends
from the cruise.
Second, a giant plaza suddenly went missing!
Third, I entered the Tunnel of Doom.
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16. Just after we
passed St. Peter's Square, Marla and I ran
into Margie Ortega and Deborah Ebner as they were heading
back to the train. You wouldn't think these two
lovely ladies were trouble makers, but they did
inadvertently throw me off my game.
When the two
ladies said they knew where the train station was, I stopped
worrying about where I was going for a while.
My problems began when I decided to look at the Evil Map
again. My instincts told me we should be crossing an
enormous open area shown on the map as Piazza del S. Uffizio.
However, with tall buildings around us, there was no plaza to be
seen.
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17.
Do you see the big Piazza on the map? Piazzas/Plazas are supposed to be big, open places, right? As I looked
around me, I was baffled. There were no open spaces,
just tall buildings. Nor were there any signs to be seen
listing the
"Piazza del S. Uffizio".
I was really upset. Where on earth was this enormous
plaza? Yes, I had been distracted while talking with Margie and Deb
about their adventures of the day,
but something this big cannot be overlooked.
Where exactly
were we on the map?
How could I have missed this plaza? If I missed
it, maybe we took a wrong turn!!
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18. What I
did not know at the time was that my Evil Map had lied to me
again.
In reality, there was no open area!!
As you can see in the Google Earth map above, there are
tightly packed buildings that occupy the same place where
the wide open Piazza del S. Uffizio was
supposed to be.
Since I had lost my way on the Evil Map, I had no choice but
to follow Margie and Deborah. Now we entered a
tunnel... the Tunnel of Doom as far as I was
concerned.
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INTO
THE TUNNEL OF DOOM
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As we crossed through the Tunnel of
Doom, I was growing worried.
I was upset about two things. First,
as we descended into the tunnel, I was
puzzled by the "Terminal
Gianico"sign. There was
definitely no street in the area on my map
named "Gianico". Where is
Gianico?
Second, Marla reminded me we were running out
of time. I did not have a watch. Since
I had no idea how much farther it was to the
train station and no way to tell time, I
started to seriously worry. Sensing
Marla's urgency, I knew we had better hurry
up and find the train station!!
Underlying my concern was the fact I didn't
know where we were any more. I was
completely lost my place on my map and now we were
running out of time. There was
no indication of any tunnel on my map and no
road or building named "Terminal
Gianico". Furthermore, I
didn't even know where we had entered the tunnel
or what street we were walking under.
In the middle of the tunnel, there was a
side route that seemed to go in the
direction of the train station... or what I
thought was the correct direction.
Margie and Deb walked right past it.
Had we just missed the cut-off to the train
station?
When we surfaced, I looked around furiously
for a street sign. The first (and
only) sign I saw
said "Borgo" (see picture).
As I stared at my map (see map), my eyes
were drawn to the only "Borgo"
in the area, a street named "Borgo
Santo Spirito". How on earth did we
get over there!?
My Evil Map said that Borgo Santo was
headed east towards the Tiber River!!
If we really were on Borgo Santo
Street, that might explain why we never saw
the Uffizio Plaza.
I was still worried about my place on the
map because I still hadn't figured out where the massive
Piazza del S. Uffizio had
disappeared to. And now, based on the
location of "Borgo" on the
Evil Map, I believed there was an outside chance we
were actually headed east, not south or
west.
My mood switched from 'definitely
concerned' to 'very worried'.
(Side Note: Using Google
Earth, a couple months later I was able
to backtrack my entire trip. By
comparing Google Earth to the Evil Map I used
and the pictures I
took, I now know where I
got lost each time and why I
got lost as well. For example,
Google Earth helped me realize I was
never able to locate the Uffizio
Plaza because it is much much
smaller than the Evil Map had indicated.
Google Earth helped me find exactly where
that tunnel was. Then Google
Earth helped me find the next location
of my confusion. Thanks to Google
Earth, every one of my mistakes and
misconceptions was cleared up.
However during my Find the Train Station
Odyssey, I had absolutely no idea where
I was supposed to be on the Evil Map. I
thought there was a very real chance the
Tiber River could appear at any moment
and we would miss the train. That
is how lost I was.)
I kept my worries to myself. We had
Deborah and Margie with us. They said
they knew where we were going. Plus
they had one big advantage over me - they
had passed this same way earlier in the day.
When we got off the train in the morning, Marla and I were
the only people who had headed south.
Everyone else - including Deborah and Margie
- had headed north towards the Vatican.
I tried to calm myself by reminding myself
they were retracing a route they were
already familiar with. So, despite my
serious misgivings, I followed quietly
behind the three women.
Then one of the ladies stopped. We had
just come to some sort of three-way
crossroad. She said she wasn't sure
where we were... but surely the train
station had to be around here somewhere!
Her words stopped me cold. Just that
small admission of doubt froze me. My paranoia
about going the wrong direction on
Borgo Santo Street was instantly ratcheted up to
sickening new levels. What if we were
going the wrong direction? We
did not have enough time to make a serious
mistake. That is when I made my
fateful decision - I wasn't going to take
another step until I figured out where I
was on the map!
I didn't want to offend Margie or Deborah,
so I made up an excuse. I said, "I
need to take some pictures. Why don't
you ladies go on up ahead and I will run and
catch up to you in a moment!"
So the three ladies went
on ahead. Meanwhile I got out my
bigger map and unfolded it on the hood of a
nearby car. I carefully scanned
both the Evil Map plus the larger map all the way to the Tiber River
trying to find that damn missing
Uffizio Piazza. It didn't make
any sense at all. Where was it?
As the reader can see from the maps, the
entire time the train station was only about
four blocks away. However, at the
time, the tall
buildings made it impossible to know if this
was true or not.
All I knew was that I was faced with three
possible directions in front of me plus the
chance I would need to backtrack if it
turned out I really had wandered onto
Borgo Santo Street. As I
pondered which route to take, a new crushing
reality dawned on me.
The three ladies were nowhere in sight!
Not only was I completely lost, now I
was also completely alone. What was I
going to do?
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That is
St
Peter's Square
in the background.
The "Borgo"
sign was my only landmark.
I could only see one "Borgo"
on my map.
And where was the
Piazza del S. Uffizio?
You can see where the tunnel was, but I had
no idea. The "X" marks the spot where
I furiously studied my map for some clue to
where the "Borgo"
sign might be.
Put yourself in my shoes. Do you see any other "Borgo"
in the area? I honestly believed we
were walking on
Borgo Santo St!
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THREE CHOICES
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My heart was pounding as I realized I had
completely lost sight of the three ladies!
Furious that I had lost track,
I scanned every possible direction. I could not see them!
I realized I had not even paid attention to which of the three
routes they had taken. Where do I go to find them?
Like a good boy scout, I
looked for the sun to get a direction. No luck there. The buildings around
me were so tall I could not see the sun nor any shadows. I
instinctively reached for my cell phone. Oops, I kept
forgetting. No service in Rome.
From where I stood, there were three
possible directions to choose from. Not one of them had a
street sign
that I could see. Which one to choose?
Where to go? And how much time did I
have left? My heart was racing. I was now in full
blown panic mode.
I started to run. Every time I came to a person, I
stopped to ask where
the train station was. I swear I asked
four people in a row, but not one of them
knew anything. This was not a
good
omen. The train station was supposed
to be nearby. If no one knew a thing, maybe that was because I
was on Borgo Santo Street about to fall into the Tiber
River!
I looked around. Right behind
me, I finally saw a street sign. I snapped a picture. OMG... it was Fornaci Street!
Fornaci had been the one-way street Marla and I had walked
on this morning. I
gasped with relief to discover this street because it meant the train station was indeed nearby.
Although I didn't know exactly where I was on Via Fornaci,
I guessed that the train station had to be towards the sun (I could
see it now). I felt an
incredible surge of relief pour over me. No time for more
pictures or maps. This was it. I
started running again. Then I started to run
fast. Then faster!
The next chance I had to turn right, I took
it and sprinted as hard as I could. One block later, as I
crossed an intersection, I thought I heard someone call my name.
I stopped to stare. No one. I waited to see if I could
hear my name called
again. No sound, nothing. Frustrated, I started
running again. One block later, the train station came into
sight. I cannot remember feeling more relieved. I had made it to the train station with ten
minutes to spare. But where was my wife?
A couple minutes later Marla plus Deb and Margie showed up behind
me. I was confused. How did I get ahead of them? Marla greeted me with arms crossed and total indifference.
I was getting the silent treatment. Marla was really mad at
me about something. Back in the doghouse again. My day in Rome was ending exactly the same way it had
started.
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The street sign that saved me - Fornaci Street
St. Peter's Train Station |
STRANGER IN A STRANGE LAND
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Piazza del
Sant Uffizio
Like most
people, I don't enjoy being out of control. It was humiliating
to get lost, especially when I had gone out of my way ahead of time to prevent it
from happening again! After I returned to
Houston, I was determined to figure out what had
gone wrong. I had first lost track of things when the
mysterious giant Plaza of Saint Uffizi alluded to by
my Evil Map had failed to materialize. Let's start there. So
I typed "Piazza del Sant Uffizio" into Google.
What popped up was the map on the right.
As I stared at the map, I learned that Piazza del Sant Uffizio
was not a plaza at all, but rather the name of a street. In
fact, I was embarrassed to discover that I had been walking on this
exact street while I was furiously looking everywhere for the
missing plaza! In other words, I was figuratively sitting on
top of the very elephant I was looking for. In fact, this same street was the one that took
me to the Tunnel of Doom!
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Rione Borgo
As I zoomed in
and out of the map looking for more information, something
mysterious happened... the mapped morphed into a picture!
It
showed exactly where the Piazza del Sant Uffizio turned into the Tunnel of Doom.
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That's when I had a déjà vu experience... Where have I seen this
picture before?
I looked at my own pictures and discovered I had taken a snapshot of that same brown building
right after we exited the Tunnel of Doom. In fact, this was the exact moment when
I first saw the
"Borgo" sign that confused me so much.
It was the combination of the missing Plaza of
Saint Uffizi and the appearance of the word "Borgo"
that led me to
worry that we had accidentally begun walking
down a street named "Borgo Santo" (see Evil
Map).
Now was the time to solve the mystery. As I sat at my
computer, I studied the "Borgo" picture again. I tried to make out the word above "Borgo".
It looked to me like it said "Rione XIV". So I typed
"Rione Borgo" into Google. Immediately Wikipedia
popped up with an answer.
Rione Borgo
14 is the 14th historic district (rione)
of Rome. It lies on the west bank of the Tiber. The Borgo
borders the Vatican City (Saint Peter's Square) to the west, the
Tiber to the east, Prati to the north, the quartiere Aurelio to
the southwest and Trastevere to the south.
'Rione' was the Italian word for "district".
'Borgo'
was the name of the district I was in. This explained why the word
'Borgo' appeared as part
of several street names in this area. This was the
Borgo District of Rome.
First I had mistakenly looked for a plaza (Uffizi)
which turned out to be the name of a street instead. Then I had mistaken a sign
marking a section of Rome (Borgo) for a street name.
Now I knew how I had managed to get so lost. I even figured out that
the Terminal
Gianico
sign I had seen in the Tunnel of Doom referred to the
Gianicolense
Park
that Marla and I had tried to visit first thing that morning only to
be blocked by the giant wall. It was
all becoming much clearer now.
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LOST IN THE JUNGLE OF
ROME
Too bad things weren't so clear during the day of our 2009 Roman Forum
Adventure.
Marla doesn't get mad at me very often. And when she does get
mad at me, I usually have a pretty good idea what she is mad about.
The incident involving the train station proved to be the
exception... I had never quite figured out why she was so upset with
me in the train station that afternoon.
Of course all sorts of things had gone wrong that day. Our
death-defying walk down Via Fornaci with cars speeding past us like
flying torpedoes had gotten us off on the wrong foot. Our winding
walk through Trastavere with all the energy-consuming detours didn't help.
Our disappointing visit to the Roman Forum had
made us both feel even grumpier. This was definitely wasn't our
day.
Yet something I had done wrong on our mad rush to St Peter's Train Station had
made things even worse between us (as if that was possible). On the long train trip back
to Civitavecchia, Marla hadn't said a word to me. Thanks to my
train station-related panic attack, I was
feeling pretty beat up myself, so I didn't feel like bringing the
subject back up either.
Four months later, now that I had done my homework and figured out
what had gone wrong that day (at least from my point of view), I figured it was time to
ask Marla why she had been so mad at me at Saint Peter's Train
Station.
Even though four months had passed, I discovered the details of that
incident were still fresh in her mind. Why was I not surprised?
Here is what happened.
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After Marla,
Margie, Deborah, and I had crossed through the Tunnel of
Doom, one of the ladies said she wasn't sure which
direction to take next. Since I was already
worried that we were quite possibly going the wrong
direction, her hesitation triggered my worst nightmare that
we were in serious danger of missing the train.
(1) The
combination of the missing Uffizi Plaza, (2) the
strange misleading Borgo sign across the
street, (3) the mysterious side route in the tunnel that we had
just bypassed, and (4) now these haunting words of hesitation all
worked together to make me worry we might be going the wrong
way. Unfortunately we had no time to spare. If somehow we
were going the wrong direction, I had better find out RIGHT NOW
while there was still time to correct our mistake. I
believed my best chance to solve the mystery was to use my
two maps. That
is when I stopped at the corner and told the ladies to go
on.
Let me explain
my decision to stop another way. There were only two
possibilities. If we were close to the train
station... which is what my instincts told me was likely...
then we had enough time to spare for me to stop and
double-check.
If we were indeed lost and walking in
the opposite direction... which is what my brain told me was
a small but very real possibility... then our only chance of
making the train was finding out now before it was too late
to turn around. Either way, we had nothing to lose if
I stopped to eliminate all doubt we were going the
wrong direction.
Unbeknownst to me, two incidents occurred that upset Marla. The first
occurred almost immediately. While I had my nose
buried in the Evil Map, Marla had walked on. About 50 yards
further down the street, Marla was at an angle where she was
able to catch a glimpse of the train in a gap between the buildings
as it raced by. Marla
turned to shout at me, "Rick, I saw the train! Here
it is! Come on."
The
problem was that I couldn't hear what she said. I
don't hear that well plus her
voice isn't that strong, especially with the distance and all the noise from
the traffic. Marla said I screamed back at her, "I
have a map! Go ahead. I have a map!"
My
behavior didn't make any sense to her, but Marla assumed I
was serious about wanting to take those pictures. For
that matter, I doubt Marla had any idea why I was so
obsessed with that map.
Marla, Deborah, and Margie walked a little further down the
street, then stopped to wait for me (the picture shows
where they waited).
When I woke up from my map reading, I panicked and began to
run south down Via Fornaci. The map
shows where I made my right turn. As I crossed
the next intersection, I was now ahead of the three ladies.
Marla saw me and shouted my name. That's when I
stopped and looked around. The three ladies were about
50 yards away. Marla says I looked right at her!
Unfortunately I never saw her.
The ladies
were incredulous to see me stare right at them, then turn
and run away!
How rude!
In their minds, they thought I was behaving like a silly
little boy trying to beat them to the train station.
They had been sitting there for over ten minutes waiting for
me to catch up and now I didn't even have the courtesy to
rejoin them. Instead I was going to race them to the
train station. No wonder they were mad.
It was all a
misunderstanding. The truth is that I don't hear very
well and I don't see very well. And in my panic, I
imagine I was much less attuned to my environment.
All Marla knew
was that this day had seen one colossal screw-up after
another. She just wanted to go back to the ship and be
done with it.
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THE FINAL
HUMILIATION
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As
Marla and I talked over what had happened that day in Rome four
months earlier, there was one thing Marla
was definitely right about. She said I had been in a strange
mood all day long.
Marla was correct. I had an axe to grind, but it wasn't
necessarily with her. I was dealing with some bruised pride.
During the previous year's 2008 Greece-Italy-Turkey Trip, I had
repeatedly let down my family due to my lack of energy. For
example, our trip to the Vatican Museum was ruined when I had physically fallen apart and
was forced to return to the hotel.
Marla
understood my lack of energy was probably related to a serious
thyroid problem known as "Graves Disease" that had recently been
diagnosed. Although I was receiving medication, the problem
wasn't under control yet. My problem was made worse by a combination of jet lag and
the hot sun. Still, Marla had to be disappointed to see me
barely drag through one day after the next during the trip. I wasn't oblivious
to her frustration. I hated not being able to keep up.
Plus I can be so absent minded at times. For example, there
was the day last year when I nearly cost us our trip to the Borghese
Museum when I had read the cursed Evil Map the wrong way.
That was last
year. I had vowed to myself to do better this year.
The thyroid problem was under control now and I was ready to show
Marla I could pull my own weight on this trip.
So Marla was
correct that I was in some sort of a mood. My intensity during the
morning walk to the Roman Forum was directly related
to my wounded pride from last year's trip.
Likewise, my
determination to get things right on the late afternoon walk back to the train was
related to the same motivation - I wasn't going to let us get lost
again!
So, considering my personal vow not to let us get lost again, how do
you suppose I felt when I discovered I was lost again?
Yeah, not so hot. In fact, I was really really mad at
myself during that train ride back to the cruise ship. The
entire day was supposed to demonstrate to Marla that I knew what I
was doing. If that was the case, I had not come even remotely
close to accomplishing my mission. Marla was clearly disgusted with
me.
My bad mood might explain why I made yet one more serious error in
judgment when the train stopped in Civitavecchia. While
everyone else from the train boarded the buses to be driven back to
the cruise ship, I told Marla I was going to walk back instead. We
still had 30 minutes left before we had to be back on board.
That would give me plenty of time to walk back to the ship.
Marla stared at me incredulously. The first thing Marla
thought to herself was that I was nuts. She knew for a fact
that it was a long way back to the boat - 3 miles. Marla knew it was a
long way because in the morning we had taken that route on the bus
ride from the ship to the train.
However, Marla's second thought was that maybe I really did know
what I was doing. After all, I had taken the same bus ride
from the ship to the train that she did, so obviously I was well
aware just how far it was. Marla decided to give me the
benefit of the doubt. She told herself that maybe I really did
know a shortcut back to the boat that I could take on foot, but that
a bus couldn't use (well, as I discovered, there actually was a
shortcut that would have shortened my three mile walk to about 300
yards... if I wanted to swim).
The one thing Marla did know was that she was exhausted and didn't
feel like arguing with me. If Rick wanted to walk back to the
boat, fine,
let him do it his way.
The problem was that Marla's first instinct was the correct one.
I was completely out of my mind!
So what was I thinking? The reason I wanted to walk back
to the cruise ship was so I could learn more about the port of
Civitavecchia. That's all there was to it. I had 30
minutes left to try to salvage something positive from this terrible
worthless ruined day.
Maybe this little adventure would cheer me up. I could use
some cheering up.
My plan had started that morning. While we stood around on the
ship waiting to be released to go to our buses, I had overheard a
snippet of conversation from someone in our group. The man had
told his girlfriend that you could walk from the ship to the train.
Or at least that is what I thought I heard him say. As I
would discover the hard way, whatever that guy was talking about, he
could not possibly have been talking about this particular port!
I obviously misunderstood him. That will teach me to
eavesdrop.
Now, Marla was
correct about another thing too. I had indeed taken the same
bus ride that morning. The problem for me had been that I
didn't pay any attention. For the entire ride I had played
computer chess. Distracted by my game, I had not realized that
the distance from the ship to the train was a fifteen minute
bus ride. The circuitous route added up to a considerable
distance.
This meant I was basing my decision to walk back to the ship on not
just one, but two
pieces of incorrect data. I guess this was my day to be
stupid all day long. Maybe I should have checked my horoscope
that morning.
I quickly discovered this walk
wasn't particularly interesting. As the pictures show, there wasn't
much to see. Ordinarily this might have been the most
unbelievably boring walk I have ever taken except that I managed to
find a way
to make it very interesting. As the walk stretched on
and on, I seriously began to wonder if 30 minutes would be enough
time to cover the distance.
Once I realized this walk was going to take a lot longer than I
had ever imagined, for the third time day I panicked (dodging
speeding cars in the morning, lost in the Twilight Zone in the
afternoon, and now this insanity).
I didn't have a watch and I didn't know the actual distance.
Maybe it was five miles? Faced with this uncertainty, all I
knew was that I had better pick up my pace dramatically.
I began to run. I am actually a fairly good runner.
Thanks to my thyroid problem, about 18 months ago I started running
every morning at home to improve my stamina. As a rule, I
cover 1.3 miles in 12 minutes during my run in the morning. If
you do the math, this means I run at a pace equal to 6 miles an
hour... except there's no way I can keep up that pace for a complete
hour! Or could I?
There's an old African saying that you run faster with a lion
chasing you. In my case, the thought of what Marla would say
to me if I missed the boat was almost as fearsome. I was
scared out of my wits that I was going to be late. After all
the screw-ups of the day, I couldn't afford another one. So I
ran. Somehow I covered 3 miles in 30 minutes. How
did I do it? Once I got scared, I ran harder than I have ever
run before in my life.
And since I didn't have a watch, I had no idea where I stood... so I
refused to let up until I was sure of success. I couldn't bear
the thought of missing the boat.
For the entire time I ran, buses kept passing me. I took that
as a good sign. As long as buses kept passing me, that meant
there were still passengers who hadn't yet made it back to the ship.
I finally made it to cruise ship row. In all I passed four
cruise ships... Carnival's Grand Celebration, a Grimaldi Cruise
Ship, an Azmara Cruise Ship (I forgot to take a picture), and the
Celebrity Century.
Every cruise ship had staff personnel outside to greet returning passengers. I
would ask them
where the Voyager of the Seas was. They all
smiled and pointed... down there somewhere. Lucky me. My
ship was the very last one on the pier.
Truth be told, I didn't make it back to the ship on time after all. It was 6:05
when I got on board. The ship was delayed because a ship-sponsored
tour bus was a few minutes late. The lady who greeted me said I did
not even have the dubious honor of being the last person back.
However, she added, I was the first person she had ever seen come
back to the ship on foot at this port. Seeing me
frown, like a
true pro, she smiled to reassure me this was meant as some
sort of compliment. Yeah, sure.
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From the train to the bus... except for me of course
The train departs after
dropping us off
Taxis that have just
dropped off passengers
A Carnival ship
"Grimaldi" is the name of
the Royal Family of Monaco
Celebrity Cruise Line is
now a part of Royal Caribbean
As long as buses kept
passing me, I figured I was okay
My ship was at the very
end of the pier. Serves me right. I was so tired when I
got back on board I actually had to sit on the floor as I waited for my
elevator.
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The more I study this
picture of my long walk back to the ship, maybe I really should have
considered
swimming instead.
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When I entered the
cabin, Marla was pretty surprised to see me. Earlier when she
ran into Cher Longoria on the elevator, Marla had privately said she
didn't think I would make the ship.
What Marla didn't realize is the thought of having to live this
mistake down for the rest of my life was so unbearable that I had
made a herculean effort to beat the clock. Now I collapsed on
the bed. I have never been more tired. This had been one of
the longest days of my life.
Actually, one couple from our group did miss the train.
At a cost of several hundred dollars, they were forced to take a cab
ride from Rome.
The constant threat of missing
the boat definitely adds an element of suspense to
the end of every travel adventure.
I suppose you wonder if I
am going to write about all the noble lessons I learned this
day. Don't be ridiculous - other than learning I have the
ability to be an idiot, I didn't learn much else. Maybe I did learn to pay better attention. But if I did
that, then you wouldn't have all these bizarre stories to
read, now would you?
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WHEN
THE BEST LAID PLANS OF MICE AND MEN GO AWRY
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When Marla and I began our walk in the morning, I
never dreamed the events of the day would
result in so much disappointment.
In our family, there is no doubt that Marla
knows more about the finer details of travel.
Thanks to her vast travel experience and
natural interest in travel, she is way ahead
of me.
We often tease that Marla mainly brings me
along on trips to carry the luggage, take
pictures and help her with the dress clasp
on Formal Nights.
I accept my role as Junior Partner in our
travel schemes willingly. My male ego has no problem with Marla's
excellence. That said, I do aspire to
develop more competency just so she doesn't
have to do everything herself. No one
wants to be a drag.
Marla planned every single aspect of our
Barcelona Trip except one - Rome.
Perhaps as a way to atone for last year's
problems, long ago I had asked for and been
given the responsibility for planning
today's activities. I had purchased an
impressive map at the bookstore.
Together with my new map plus the Evil Map
from last year's stay at Hotel Alimandi, I had carefully studied the
best route to the Forum well in advance.
As I stared at my new map, there was one
overwhelming reality that caught my eye -
the
Gianicolense Park
which included the
Garibaldi Monument,
Palazzo Corsini, and the
Botanical Gardens.
Here was a chance to walk through a
beautiful city park on our way to the Forum
and this park was right
across the street from St Peter's Station. A nature
walk! This adventure was sure to
please my wife.
Considering how much thought I had put into
the plans for our walk, imagine my dismay
when Marla had proposed an alternate route
just seconds before we started.
Marla looked at the map and suggested we
simply walk from the Vatican to
the Forum along the Imperial Highway just
like the ancient Romans did.
I disagreed. Calmly pointing out the beautiful garden
I wanted us to visit on my route,
I also said that I had planned on returning
to the Vatican at the end of the day using Marla's
Imperial Highway route.
That persuaded Marla to go along with my
plan.
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THE EVIL MAP
RUINS MY DAY
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In retrospect, as you can see on the Evil Map,
thanks to all the twists and turns we were forced to
take, Marla's direct route would have been far
superior to our actual route. However, I think
my proposed route thru the park would have been the same distance.
Unfortunately, my
Evil Map set me up
for failure all day long!
ONE. My Evil Map
didn't tell me the stupid Gianicolense Park
can only be entered from the south. If you
look, there are clearly roads on the Evil Map that
connect the park to the Via Fornacci.
TWO.
Furthermore the map had two streets that appeared to
intersect. In reality we found out the hard way those
2 streets were separated by a massive drop at
Janiculum Hill.
THREE. I got terribly lost late in the
day trying to find St.
Peter's Station mainly because the map indicated a
massive plaza (Uffizi) where none existed.
When
you add these three problems to my earlier problems
with the map from 2008, you can begin to see why I
am beginning to wonder if the Evil Map was designed
by the Devil himself.
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I realize that blaming all my problems on a map carries about as
much weight in serious circles as telling the teacher the dog ate my
homework. That said, I am sticking to my story. There is
no doubt that I made four serious mistakes all based on
misleading information provided by that particular map. Considering the
Evil Map was free, I guess I got what I paid for.
Experience is a Comb
that Life throws you after you have already lost your Hair.
Unfortunately, like many problems in life, I didn't
realize the Evil Map was inadequate until it was too late to do
anything about it. Actually, it wasn't
till we returned to Houston that I realized every
one of my problems in Rome had been related to misinterpreting the
Evil Map. I swear I knew where north and south was all day long and I
had three different maps along with me to make sure
there were no mistakes. And yet I made
mistakes all day long. Why? Because I
didn't know at the time my favorite map was full of distortions.
I suppose in the effort to make the map look more appealing to
tourists, lots of graphics (and advertisements) were added which
took up valuable space, thus leaving less room for the fine details.
Like many
lessons in life, I learned my lesson too late to be of any
benefit on this trip. Next time I will either get a better map
or maybe I will simply accept my shortcomings and let a guide show
me around instead.
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A VENUS - MARS
MEDITATION
ON MAPS AND DIRECTIONS
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It is
hard for a man to admit that he can't understand a
map, but the fact remains I was truly humbled by this
day's disappointments. I was also
upset that Marla had lost so much confidence in my
sense of direction. When the trip was over, I was
still so upset by the problems
of the Roman Forum Day that I
continued to give the subject more thought.
I decided to do some research on the subject. Navigation
turns out to be a major Venus/Mars Hot Button!
Like a fault line in the earth, the subject of
Maps and Directions is a bigger source of
tension between men and women than I had previously
realized. Mind you, the tension on this
subject is not quite as serious as the recurring
gender differences on sex, money, and how to raise
the children, but men and women definitely have
different approaches to the topic of Directions.
I
quickly discovered that the issue of Maps and
Directions has become fodder for many jokes. Here are a few of the nuggets I
came across.
-
Women cannot use a map without turning the
map to correspond to the direction that they are
heading.
-
Women will drive miles out of their way
using a well known route in thick traffic to avoid the
possibility of getting lost using a shortcut.
-
Women would rather make three right turns
instead of one left.
-
How do we know that men invented maps?
Only a man would take an inch and
pretend it was a mile.
-
Out on the road, how many men does it take
to change a mind?
None. Once their minds are made up, they
never change.
-
Why are maps useless to most men?
Because they are too conceited to bother
to look at them.
-
Why won't men ask for directions?
Because they won't listen anyway.
-
Why does it take millions of sperm to fertilize
one egg?
Because sperm are 'male' and won't stop to ask for directions.
-
Why doesn't evolution produce men who
will ask for directions?
The sperm that gets 'lucky' to reproduce
turns into a man who is genetically incapable of
asking for directions, so the cycle continues.
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If I
am to believe what I read, the conventional wisdom
is that the male members of our species have a great
reluctance to admit they are lost, especially when
they are in the company of women. While this
may be true, on the flip side of the coin, I have
personally observed women who have to rotate maps
around until the map is facing the same identical
direction as the street in order to understand it.
And I also know women who absolutely hate it when men take driving shortcuts. So obviously there is
enough truth in all of those jokes to make them
funny (unless they are directed at you, of course).
Believe it or not, there has even been academic
research on sex differences when it comes to
directions. As I
poked around the Internet, I discovered someone has
actually written a book on the subject... Why
Men Don't Listen and Women Can't Read Maps.
As I
glanced through a couple chapters of the book, I
discovered an amusing story about a pair of English
researchers who actually devised a test to explore
the concept that women have to turn the map around
for it to be effective. In 1998, English
researchers John and Ashley Sims created a double
map... one for people traveling north and a second
"upside down" map for people traveling south.
Advertising in a national newspaper, they said the
map was free to the first 100 people to ask for one. They
received requests from 15,000 women, but only a
handful of men. Draw your own conclusions.
I also found several scientific studies that
attempted to prove why men were better than women at
navigation and tried to explain the reasons behind men's natural
superiority. The general conclusion was that
evolution had made cavemen the better navigators due to
their hunting and gathering duties... for example,
men who could find their way back to the cave were
more likely to reproduce than men who couldn't. Cooking in
a cave, on the other hand, had not stimulated
women's navigational brain cells for eons.
Voila! There you have it. Anyone who
cooks cannot read maps. Mind you, these
studies and conclusions seem to have all been made
by male researchers.
Here is one smug male-oriented conclusion I came across that is sure to raise the
hackles of the women.
Witness how many women get lost from their seat
after a trip to the restroom at a football game,
a problem not shared by men.
A Man's brain has lot of space for handling the
analytical process, so he can easily analyze the
situation and
find the solution. Many men
can design a map of a building with little
effort
after walking through the area just one single time. On
the other hand, if a complex map is viewed by women, she can not
understand it. She can not grasp the
details of the map easily. For her it is
just a clump of lines on a piece of paper.
Point/Counterpoint. I also
ran across articles written by women that
said all these studies and anti-female conclusions were total
nonsense. From the energy in some of the
responses, I can see that the issue of maps
and directions remains a hot topic in the
legendary battle of the sexes. Here are a
few examples.
Christina,
December 6, 2007
"I
know my right from my left. Not my
husband. I have sore feet from dancing to
prove it. I
can also read maps just fine. My husband, on the other
hand, is the worst navigator I have ever dealt
with. Good thing he didn't join the military.
He might be stupid enough to get lost and ask
the enemy for directions."
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Sally, July 22,
2005
"When it comes to finding places or getting
lost, there are good drivers and bad drivers of
both sexes. To me, the real difference is
the way men and women's brains work while
trying to figure out where to go. It's not as
black and white as I say it now of course, but
the *average* man and the *average* woman will
use different ways of finding their way.
Men use directions (500 meters, then left, then 2 km
then right at the crossroads) while women use
landmarks (drive until the KFC, turn right, then straight
ahead until you can see that lovely blue house
I'd like to buy).
This
theory was proven on my parents! Try it
yourself.
Just test it by asking your mum and dad
separately to tell you how to get somewhere.
You will be amazed at how different their
explanations are. The exception, of course,
comes when women do not know any landmarks.
Then
they have to use the "male" technique which they
are less good at so they get lost more."
Kim,
February 6, 2009
"So they say that women can't read maps!
Ha!
While this notion has certainly been bandied
around for as long as I can remember, the idea
was made popular by Allan and Barbara Pease in
their 2001 book, Men Don't Listen and
Women Can't Read Maps. It was then given
more credence by a report released by the
University of Warwick in 2007 that claimed that
women are apparently genetically predisposed to
remain forever lost.
Really, I'd just like to say what a load of
rubbish!
I for one am very adept at reading maps (road
maps, that is) and love nothing more than
plotting a route and hitting the highway with a
map close at hand. Perhaps it is because I've
spent so many hours following and drawing up
maps for the travel guidebooks I have worked on,
but I pride myself on being able to get from
point A to point B without getting lost. I've
even, with my trusty map in hand, managed to
have a fight with a GPS and been proven to be
right (it's a long story).
Personally, I think it is more a case of men not
listening to the women who are reading the maps.
I have had this happen to me on several
occasions while travelling for work. Once,
in spite of the fact that I had a perfectly good
map and was providing accurate directions to the
destination I was seeking, my male driver
refused to listen to me and instead continually
stopped to ask other men for directions. In one
particular instance, the driver had blindly
driven past the place we were trying to find,
but rather than following my advice to turn
around and go back, he simply ignored me and
continued on down the road in the wrong
direction!
I
have no choice but to conclude it is true: men
don't listen! They especially don't listen
to women."
REFLECTIONS ON THE EVIL MAP
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Personally speaking, I
enjoyed reading the variety of comments on
maps and navigation.
Apparently I am not the only person to ever
have issues with maps.
As for my own battle with the so-called
Evil Map, truth be told, I did
not even realize that hotel map was the
culprit until I sat down to write this
article. That's when I went back and
looked at each incident carefully to see
where I had gone wrong. As I analyzed
every mistake, I realized that my
misinterpretation of the map had been
responsible each time.
However, now that I know how easy it is to
misinterpret maps, I think I will be a lot
more careful in the future.
I will conclude with a comment about
directions and maps that I liked very much.
"A map assumes you are up high in a
balloon looking down below with total
perspective. A map forgets that
once on the ground, thanks to all the
buildings, roads that made perfect sense
from above now assume the complexity of
a dense forest or a forbidding maze.
Furthermore, what good is a map in a country
where streets may not have signs,
much less in a language you can't
read, with tall buildings
to frustrate locating
helpful landmarks, and three dimensional
topography such as hills
that may not appear?"
Amen. As a person whose day was ruined
repeatedly thanks to an Evil Map that played
mean tricks on him,
I wish I had written this comment
myself. RA
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POSTSCRIPT
Was Rick Guilty of
Not Listening to Marla?
I definitely agree that the woman
named Kim is right about her
assertion that men
don't listen to women.
For that matter, I readily admit my own guilt.
This story lists at least two
occasions where she said something
that I didn't hear. That
proves that sometimes I don't hear
things my wife says. However I don't do it
intentionally.
For example, when Marla and I went back to rehash the
events of the day,
Marla swore up and down she had told me about
the Secret Passage to Gianicolense
Park and that I had completely
ignored her.
In retrospect, it looks like the secret passage to the
park was a dead end all along. The driveway appears to lead to
a garage entrance. There appears to be a silver fence that
would discourage pedestrian traffic. Nevertheless, as Marla
said, it would not have hurt to check it out when we had the chance.
She accused me of not listening to her. Since missing that
secret passage doomed us to the scary walk down one-way Via Fornaci, she had
every right to be
upset that I hadn't listened to her. I
replied that I
never heard Marla say a thing about it.
Hmm. It is very disconcerting to have
my wife tell me I don't listen, especially
when I think I do.
No one likes to be
confronted with evidence they might have a
blind spot, or in my case, a deaf ear.
However, I can think of an simple
explanation. I know for a fact that
when I am concentrating hard on something, I
sometimes lose all track of time and the
environment around me. If a sound is
loud enough, I may hear something, but quite
often I don't hear a thing. The
ability to tune out distractions is a trick
a lifelong bookworm like myself learned long
ago.
After reading these
articles and comments, I now realize there are definite
Venus-Mars gender differences in the way men
and women handle Navigation. Thanks to
what I have learned, I will be much
more patient with my wife the next time she
objects to another one of my shortcuts.
And for that matter, I promise to spend more
time making sure we agree on everything before proceeding into
uncharted waters.
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For that matter, I hope that Marla will
remember that although I may not hear everything
she says, I don't do it
deliberately.
I honestly believe that
men get so focused on problems that they
unconsciously tune out distractions so they
can concentrate. So in the future if Marla has something
important to say, I hope she will make sure
she has my attention first.
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The Dangerous Decision - Who was
Right?
The serious question is to ask what
was the right thing to do when
confronted with the seemingly
suicidal walk down Via Fornaci?
This is a decision that has no right
answer. It was a situation
that fell right on the fault line
between classic male-female
differences. The Venus
approach is one of caution.
The Mars approach tends towards risk
taking.
We took a risk and our gamble
worked. However Marla was
angry with me for the rest of the
day because it was so dangerous.
Had we turned around and gone back,
I suppose I in turn would have been
pretty mad at the huge waste of
time. I can't see a win-win.
Maybe it's there, but I am not
seeing it.
If we had gone the beaten path - the
traditional female preference - and
headed towards the Vatican there
never would have been a problem.
I preferred to be the adventurer -
the traditional male preference.
Although at first glance you
wouldn't think a walk through a city
park would be dangerous, my trip off
the beaten path got us in serious
trouble. That's why they say
the pioneers are the brave ones for
taking the risks. And that's
why I keep reminding that some
pioneers get arrows in their back as
a souvenir for their efforts.
I confess that I don't know what I
do if confronted by another similar
situation. I still have a lot
of misgivings about our mile hike
down Suicide Lane. You can
tell the pioneers by the blood
splatter on the wall.
Was Rick Guilty of
Sexism towards Margie and Deborah?
"Personally, I think it is more a case of men not
listening to the women who are reading the maps.
I have had this happen to me on several
occasions while travelling for work. Once,
in spite of the fact that I had a perfectly good
map and was providing accurate directions to the
destination I was seeking, my male driver
refused to listen to me and instead continually
stopped to ask other men for directions. In one
particular instance, the driver had blindly
driven past the place we were trying to find,
but rather than following my advice to turn
around and go back, he simply ignored me and
continued on down the road in the wrong
direction!" A quote
from Kim listed above
When I re-read my own
story, there was
something that still troubled me
about the incident where I sent the
ladies ahead so I could pull out my
maps.
"I kept my worries to myself. We had
Deborah and Margie with us. They said
they knew where we were going.
I tried to calm myself by reminding myself
they were retracing a route they were
already familiar with. So, despite my
serious misgivings, I followed quietly
behind the three women.
Then one of the ladies stopped. We had
just come to some sort of three-way
crossroad. She said she wasn't sure
where we were... but surely the train
station had to be around here somewhere!
Her words stopped me cold. Just that
small admission of doubt froze me. My paranoia
about going the wrong direction on
Borgo Santo Street was instantly ratcheted up to
sickening new levels. What if we were
going the wrong direction? We
did not have enough time to make a serious
mistake. That is when I made my
fateful decision - I wasn't going to take
another step until I figured out where I
was on the map!
I didn't want to offend Margie or Deborah,
so I made up an excuse. I said, 'I
need to take some pictures. Why don't
you ladies go on up ahead and I will run and
catch up to you in a moment!' "
Perception is
such a funny thing. In this
situation, here were two women who
said they were pretty sure they knew
where the train station was.
However, at their slightest
hesitation, it appeared that I lost
confidence in their ability to find
the train station.
Someone could read that passage and
easily conclude "this
is definitely a
case of a man not listening to two
women who say they know where they
are going."
When you factor in the crazy
incident where I stared right at the
women and appeared to ignore them so
I could beat them to the train
station, both Deborah and Margie
could actually make the case that I
was incredibly rude not only to my
wife, but to them as well.
Now you know what was troubling me.
I had to ask myself, "Was I
guilty of sexism and disrespect
towards these women?"
On the surface, the answer would be
YES. As they
say, actions speak louder than
words. My actions in both
instances - stopping to read the map
even though the women said they knew
where they were going plus rudely
running past all three women a few
minutes later - would definitely be
grounds for indictment.
That said, I would plead "Not
Guilty".... in which case
all three women would tell me I have
some explaining to do.
As for the second point, I have
already explained I ran past the
three women because I never saw
them. That is the absolute
truth. So let's focus on the
first point.
THE MISSING
PIECE
My behavior on the first point was ambiguous. On the surface,
it didn't look good. In fact, I was almost ready to convict
myself until I realized I didn't "feel" guilty. Sometimes my
intuition races ahead of my brain. So I gave it some more thought.
I decided to try to remember what I was really thinking when I told
the women to walk on while I stopped and pulled out the maps.
Suddenly I remembered with crystal clarity what was going on in my
mind when I had stopped.
Do you remember I mentioned that Marla said I had been in a weird
mood all day long? I tried to explain my strange mood,
but I didn't go deep enough. Here is the final piece of the
puzzle.
In 2008, the most
important person on our Italy-Greece-Turkey Cruise was a man named
Iqbal Nagji. Thanks to his prior knowledge of Athens and
Turkey, for two days in a row Iqbal was able to guide large groups
through both locations (read the stories:
Athens 2008 and
Turkey 2008).
Not only did Iqbal save the members of our group a tremendous amount
of money by acting as our guide, his vast knowledge of the areas was
easily the equal of any tour guide we could have hired. I
remember feeling incredibly grateful for Iqbal's help. He was so
incredibly unselfish to give up his own vacation time to help us.
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At the time, I realized that I would probably never be able to repay
Iqbal for his immense contributions. So instead I made a quiet
vow to myself that, if given the chance, someday I wanted to
be able to do the same thing for our group!
When Marla
scheduled the Barcelona Trip for
2009, in my mind I thought I might
know enough about Rome based on our
2008 Trip to lead a group through
the streets of Rome like Iqbal had
in Athens the year before. I thought we
would simply retrace our steps from
the 2008 Rome Walk and have a great
time.
However, as the Barcelona Trip grew
closer, I had a failure of
confidence. My biggest worry
was that I didn't know Rome well
enough to GUARANTEE I could get a
large group back to the train
station on time. This thought
alone gave me nightmares! Even
if I could find my way around, I
didn't think I had enough experience
to know the best time to head back
to Train Station. How long
does it take to get from the
Colosseum to the Vatican using the
Metro? How long does it take
to walk from the Vatican subway to
St Peters Train Station?
I did not know the answers to these
questions. Therefore I wasn't
qualified to be a leader.
In other words, I wasn't in any
position to play guide based on just
one visit to Rome. Recalling
how upset I was when I nearly cost
my family our trip to Borghese
Museum in 2008,
I worried that my inexperience might
jeopardize any new adventure.
The thought of messing up again with
lots of people depending on me was
just too much responsibility to
assume based on too little
experience. So I chickened
out.
That is when I decided I would use
2009 to acquire more knowledge about
Rome in case we were fortunate
enough to ever bring a cruise group
from Houston through here again. Now
you know the real reason why we did
so much walking and exploring.
I was trying to learn enough to
someday be able to guide people
through Rome.
One of the things I learned from my
2008 Rome Trip is to take as many
pictures as possible and relate each
picture to the Evil Map. So
when Marla and I set out across Rome
in 2009, I vowed to take pictures
and follow the map religiously so I
could RETRACE MY STEPS AT A
LATER DATE. By
the way, I took 322 pictures of Rome
during our 2009. I promise you
I could duplicate the path we took
that day without trouble. For
that matter, using my diagrams, so
could you!
Yes, in my heart, I believed Deborah
and Margie could lead us back to the
train. On the other hand, when
I say there was some doubt in my
mind that we might be lost, although
I thought it was a possibility that
should be checked out, I
didn't think it was very likely.
The real reason I stopped to pull
out my maps was not because I
thought Margie and Deborah were
lost, but rather because I
myself was
lost.
Okay, so I was lost. If I had
confidence that the two women knew
where they were going, why not
simply follow Margie and Deborah to
the station?
My answer is this -
How on earth could I ever hope to
lead a group through Rome in the
future if I couldn't retrace my own
steps? So the underlying
reason that I stopped was to try to
understand where I had lost the path
on the map. As it turned out,
I was unable to solve the mystery on
the spot. However, I am glad I
stopped. This gave me the
chance to take several photographs
such as the "Borgo Picture" which
helped me figure out where had
I gone wrong later on.
In other words, my secret agenda in
2009 was to learn enough about Rome
to attain knowledge I could use
again in the future. I wanted to be sure
which route we had taken this year
from the Vatican to the train
station so that next year I could
find my way by myself.
For that matter, that was the same
reason I took my ridiculous walk
through the Port of Civitavecchia -
I was trying to map out in my mind
the relationship of the pier to the
train station. Obviously if I
had known the true distance, I
wouldn't have dreamed of making that
walk.
Yes, my Rome behavior was strange,
but easier to understand when you
accept it was born of a desire to
serve. I wanted to learn enough
about the places we visited so that
someday I can be able to guide
people myself. Every trip
needs a person like Iqbal. I
would count myself blessed to
someday be able to assume that same role.
Based on my
constant mishaps on the 2009 Trip
through Rome, I wouldn't blame you
for thinking
twice before asking my advice on any
future travel adventure.
However, look at it this way - in
just two trips, I have learned an
amazing amount of information about
the streets of Rome and its history.
For example, ask yourself this question -
Now that I have done my homework, do you
think I might be qualified to lead a
group through the Roman Forum
someday and be able to explain the
stories behind each structure? I
hope your answer is 'yes'.
Sure, I stumbled both years in Rome
on several different occasions.
But I picked myself up and kept
going. I am still a rookie at
this Travel stuff, but I am learning
fast. One of these days, God
willing, I will be ready to lead.
Thanks for reading my story.
Rick Archer
January 2010
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